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engine assembly sealers[850/1995] posted by John Feingold on
Thursday, 26 March 1998, at 10:50 p.m.
What's the current widsom re: silicone sealers for B20 engine assembly. In the olden daze gaskets generally went on dry, but time's have changed. What do folks out there think about using red or blue silicone sealers on gaskets (timing cover, rear crank seal housing, pan, etc.)? How about head gasket sealers? In the '60's I was weaned on aluminum spray paint for head gaskets, but now there are a million high-tech chemical products for head gaskets and all other gaskets, including gasket-replacement goop. But there still remains a smart school of thought that continues to recommend installing all gaskets dry.
What say?
Re: engine assembly sealers[850/1995] posted by Bill on
Friday, 27 March 1998, at 6:50 a.m.
The silicone sealants work well on cam covers and such, as long as it is high temperature and petroleum resistant. Word of warning: make sure that you get the O2 sensor safe type (if your engine has one). This will be stated on the package. Any "non-safe" sealant that comes in contact with the engine oil potentially has the ability to foul the O2 sensor: the fumes go into the crankcase, get pulled over into the combustion chamber, get burned, and the next stop is the sensor. Theoretically, if you have good, clean mating surfaces, the gasket shouldn't need any sealant. Cleanliness really counts here and a thin, even coat is best. I sometimes use a sealant just for convenience; it holds the gasket in place during assembly. Head gaskets shouldn't need any sealant.
Re: engine assembly sealers[850/1995] posted by Ed Lipe on
Monday, 30 March 1998, at 1:21 p.m.
I've found Loctite 515 to be an excellent sealant for gaskets going between rigid parts. It's anerobic, so it won't foul oil gallerys. I still use RTV at the "corners" of the valve cover where the gasket takes a turn over the cam journal. For sheet metal oilpans, peen the bolt holes flat, seal, and torque lightly. Head gaskets normally have a great sealant already applied to the surface, so no sealant is required. Just use mineral spirits or brake cleaner on the surfaces to clean and get a good seal. Copper coat, another permatex/loctite product, is also a good product where head gasket leaks have been a problem. Another trick I do is to use PAM cooking spray on those gaskets I occasionally remove, like valve cover gaskets. Apply sealant to the bottom of the gasket, place the gasket, then apply PAM to the valve cover and install. I usually replace the gasket the second time. ED7