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B20 Engine and Cooling[850/1995] posted by Melissa on
Monday, 30 March 1998, at 1:37 p.m.
I have a 1966 544 with a B20 engine and it runs too hot. Does anyone have any experience with putting a B20 in a 544. Any hints about cooling? Thanks.
Re: B20 Engine and Cooling[850/1995] posted by Jim McDonald on
Tuesday, 31 March 1998, at 9:25 a.m.
First, what are the symptoms of "runs too hot"? Is the temp gage too high[in the red], and under what circumstances does it happen? Is it loosing coolant[boiling over]?
Besides ,the usual[blocked radiator, bad water pump, stuck thermostat, collapsed hoses], I've heard of the distribution tube, which runs the length of the head, getting blocked.
The best thing I did for my 544[B-20] cooling was to install a 13" flex fan; it never approaches overheating, even in a traffic jam.
Re: B20 Engine and Cooling[850/1995] posted by John on
Saturday, 4 April 1998, at 3:09 p.m.
You can swap in a later model radiator out of a 140 and it will help. Need to turn thr side brackets around and it will fit, If you don't have experience soldering, any radiator shop can do it. I also run an oil cooler in my 544.
Re: B20 Engine and Cooling[850/1995] posted by George Downs on
Sunday, 5 April 1998, at 9:57 p.m.
I would recommend checking your ignition timing.
If a B16, B18, B20 or B30 has the ignition retarded,
it will overheat no matter what, sometimes to the
point of making your exhaust manifold cherry red
and burning your exhaust pipe off.
If you don't have vacuum advance (most don't),
set your ignition to fire at 21-24 degrees before
top dead center. If you do have vacuum advance
reduce this by 7-10 degrees with the advance
disconnected or set to 21-24 with the vacuum
connected. If it kicks back against the starter
or pings, you have advanced a little too far and
should back it down to where it works right.
This will improve your performance as well
as help the heat problem, since the power is
going to the road instead of out the exhaust.
George Downs
Fort Clayton, Panama