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Timing Belt Tool[240-260/1987] posted by Norm Lizotte on
Saturday, 13 June 1998, at 7:32 p.m.
Does anyone know where one can buy for a good price one of those special tools that hold the crankshaft from turning to remove/tighten the crankshaft bolt? This is necessary when you are changing the timing belt.
Thanks in advance.
Norm Lizotte nlizotte@iconn.net
1993 240DL sedan
1992 940GL sedan
1987 240DL sedan
Re: Timing Belt Tool[240-260/1987] posted by Rob Abel on
Sunday, 14 June 1998, at 12:05 a.m.
Don't know if I'd call it a good price (most Volvo items there aren't) but the
dealer in AZ sells them for $40, special order, paid in advance, etc. etc..
I'd rather order one from RPR, which I will be doing next time.
Use the tool, not some DIY method like I did last time and ended up dinging
up the bottom of my timing cover. The rest of the job is simple.
Good luck.
Re: Timing Belt Tool[240-260/1987] posted by Gary DiFrancesco on
Monday, 15 June 1998, at 10:03 a.m.
I just replaced the timing belt in my '87 740T. I ran into the problem of the engine turning when removing the bolt. Fortunately, the car has an M46 tranny. So the solution was simple. Set the parking brake real tight, and put the tranny in 4th gear. The engine will move some until all the slop in the drive train and parking brake is taken up. At this point the crank bolt will come free. As you have noticed, the bolt is on very tight. The torque spec. on my B230 engine is something like 177 - 206 ft.lbs., thats tight! I ended up using a long piece of pipe on the wrench to break it free.
Now if you have an automatic tranny, things get more complicated. My Haynes manual suggests gaining access to the flywheel (by removing starter) and having someone jam a screwdriver into the teeth of the ring gear to prevent engine rotation. I don't feel comfortable with this idea. One well placed slit and the teeth may be damaged requiring a tranny removal and installation of a new ring gear.
If your car is an automatic tranny, then you may have to buy/borrow the "tool".
Anyone have any other ideas on how to stop engine rotation without purchasing a somewhat pricey tool for a once in every 3-5 year repair? I'm interested since my '88 740T with AW71 tranny also needs a timing belt.
--Gary DiFrancesco
Re: Timing Belt Tool[240-260/1987] posted by Randy on
Monday, 15 June 1998, at 2:18 p.m.
>Anyone have any other ideas on how to stop engine rotation without >purchasing a somewhat pricey tool for a once in every 3-5 year repair? I'm >interested since my '88 740T with AW71 tranny also needs a timing belt.
As Mike eluded to in his follow up to your post- the starter can be used to loosen the bolt. Attach the correct size socket to a long breaker bar. Remove and ground the coil wire (you don't want it to actually start up and run!) Put the socket on the bolt and rotate the crankshaft until the breaker bar is held in place against the inner fender. Give the starter a quick on/off. The bolt will be loose. This of course doesn't address the problem of holding the engine from turning while you reinstall the bolt.
Re: Timing Belt Tool[240-260/1987] posted by Steve Seekins on
Monday, 15 June 1998, at 2:32 p.m.
Best way is to use the Volvo tool - works for B21, B23, and B230 engines.
Some folks are tempted to use an impact wrench. You may get away with this on the B21/B23 engines, but on a B230, the crank is cast, not forged, and it is easy to break off the end of the crankshaft using an impact wrench. If you don't have the tool and have an automatic, it is possible to remove one of the plastic vent ports on the bellhousing and jam a long prybar between the drive plate and the torque converter. Takes two peopel, but you can use this method for both removal and installation.
For installation, be sure to check the manual for proper torque and tightening procedures.
Also, trying to use a strap type wrench on the pully can cause a problem on the B230 vibration damper type pulleys - the pulley is bonded to the hub with a rubber layer and can be torn free. The tool locks the pulley hub itself.
Steve Seekins,
Wednesday, 17 June 1998, at 1:04 a.m.
The tool is a cylindrical spanner with lugs that engage the holes in the pulley. It has a handle about 2 feet long.
Here's the recipe:
Cut a piece of 3" steel water pipe 3 inches long. Mark the end of the pipe in two places 180 degrees apart. Make another 2 marks, each 1-inch to the right of the first mark.
At each mark make a hacksaw cut 1" deep into the end of the pipe.
Next draw a line from the bottom of one hacksaw cut to the bottom of another cut 2.5" away around the pipe.
Cut on that line and remove the piece of metal. Do the same on the other side of the pipe. What remains is a spanner with two 1' by 1' lugs that will fit in the holes in the pulley.
Take it under the car and see if it fits. Minor sawing or grinding may be needed. When it fits, weld a handle on the side of the pipe. (You must insert your socket wrench through the center of the homemade tool.)
The handle should be 3/8" x 2" flat steel, 24" long or longer. Too bad I can't insert a picture in my response. It's a lot simpler than my description.
Dick