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Transmission fluid change...[240-260/1979] posted by Tom Salzmann on
Thursday, 11 June 1998, at 8:17 p.m.
I'd like to change the transmission fluid in my BW55 3 speed. Some questions:
1. Is this an OK thing for a (something less than) weekend mechanic to do?
2. I understand I need to drop the pan and clean the screen in there. Any advice on this? Is a torque wrench needed?
3. I've been reading the posts on transmission fluids. I assume I need "ATF". Any particulars on that? I assume I need a funnel with small opening to fill through the dipstick?
The car runs and shifts great. But I'm not happy with the fact that I have no record of the last fluid change. So it's time!
Thanks!
Tom
--
Tom Salzmann, brickster@salzo.com, '79 244dl 167K (see me in the 'gallery')
Re: Transmission fluid change...[240-260/1979] posted by George Swift on
Thursday, 11 June 1998, at 10:03 p.m.
Tom,
Go ahead and takle the job, but consider these things first. Some oil companies, like Pennz say that by changing old ATF, one could ''wash'' a transmission into difficulty. I think they're full of the same shit that they put in their oil, but it sounds logical. Their claim is that if you change the fluid (repair shops) on a vehicle that has been neglected, you run the risk of a ''comeback'' because you may be cleaning the threads that are holding the transmission together. I don't agree but I suppose it could happen.
I believe in servicing a transmission every 20,000 miles whether it needs it or not. Cheap insurance. I have one up to 650,000 miles now. Something's right. You MUST use ATF TYPE F. If the fluid is real smelly and nasty, get DEJA VU and do it 2 wkends in a row. You'll definitly notice better shifts, and at that ONE time you make huge demands of your transmission, it won't let you down.
My advise is, don't use a cork gasket. Cork gaskets are probably the best, but most 1st timers will enevitably over torque them. Use a ''composition'' Gasket. They're usually black or gray and the have a forgiving amount of ''crush'' to them. They seal excellent w/o the use of any sealants, and sealants are a NO NO in automatic transmissions. Don't use sealers....Don't needum.
The original filter screens were of brass. You can't always expect them to be re-usable and often times find them torn. The brass screens have been known to kill the pump when they fail and get into the system. Try to find a stainless steel screen and replace that. Use good quality ATF F , and you'll be fine. There are two different schools for thought on trans. pan torque. ''Tighten it 'till the gasket is destroyed, then back it off 1/4 turn'', or ''Tighten it snug, and if it should leak, tighten it a little more''. I go w/the latter.
--George Swift / Volvo Car Care
Re: Transmission fluid change...[240-260/1979] posted by Ed Lipe on
Thursday, 11 June 1998, at 10:12 p.m.
To add to George's Torque advice...
Use your off hand (that is to say, if you're right handed use your left hand) and a 1/4 inch ratchet to tighten valve covers, oil pans, and trans pans.
And then, still don't reef on it. Think soft butter, don't need a sharp knife, do ya?
ED7, '51 R25, '65 R69S, '67 1600 GT, '86 745 TD, '90 240 GL, '95 RWL
Re: Transmission fluid change...[240-260/1979] posted by Don Willson on
Friday, 12 June 1998, at 11:29 a.m.
Though i have done this myself I sould suggest doing a power flush where you run the engine and pump the old fluid out at the coller connection while adding new fluid. this takes more fluid but it removes all of the old fluid, not just 1/3. Call transmission houses and aske about power flushing.