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Converting B30E to B30A[160/74] posted by Craig Chernos on
Thursday, 11 June 1998, at 1:37 p.m.
Well, my 164E is up to its old tricks again. The warm idle speed is all over the place - at one stop sign, the tach might read 1100 RPM, at the next, 400 RPM. I've got a known-good aux air valve installed, so we can eliminate that. The intake air mainfold is securely bolted down, so I don't think it's an intermittent air leak. Hoses and clamps seem secure. The local mechanic isn't sure what the problem is, and neither am I. Memories of my old reliable 122S are still fresh, and I'm thinking I just want to get rid of the Bosch Jetronic system, and convert the B30E engine to using twin carbs, like the B30A engine. Has anybody else out there done this? What prompted you to do so? Were the results good? What's it cost? Thanks! Craig Chernos
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Re: Converting B30E to B30A[160/74] posted by Jean Vilters on
Friday, 12 June 1998, at 11:50 a.m.
try to disconnect air temperature sensor (by airfilter snorkel at radiator core support) it looks like a regular temp sensor.
also check 3 injector seals (base of injector,nose of injector and below potmetal housing(against head) and fuel pressure
to convert back to carburator will open many cans of metric worms!
hope this helps - let me know
jv
Re: Converting B30E to B30A[160/74] posted by nanda on
Sunday, 14 June 1998, at 2:57 a.m.
Dear Craig
I own a 1970 P1800E
the E should be hyphenated -previous owner converted to twin SU's
I am now in the process of re-converting to Fuel injection..
Your car should be using a K-jetronic system continuous fuel injection system
-quite bomb proof really.
I agree with Jean in addition you should also check the following:-
1)pressure regulator-this is a spring loaded device on the side of the fuel distributor.This device is supposed to maintain fuel line pressure at a constant level
2)Warm up regulator/control pressure
This will be bolted on to the block or manifold-it provides mixture compensation
during warm up and controls the ease with which the control plunger moves up
Checking 1)and 2) above involves the use of high pressure hose and a gauge
which is beyond the scope of most DIY owners.However I feel that the rewards
of a fully functioning fuel inj. system are well worth the effort.
good luck
--Dr.Nanda
Re: Converting B30E to B30A[160/74] posted by Topi on
Sunday, 14 June 1998, at 6:27 p.m.
Take a piece of plastic bag and block AUX air valve hose. If it doesn't help, do the same for brake vacum hose. If neither one helps, it can be electrical. Check timing for "walking". Check distributor mech advance springs. If that doesn't help. it's time to find an air leak. Spray Start Gas to intake manifold, FI injectors and so on. If idle jumps, you found it! If you don't know what to do nxt, find someone with same year car, in good condition, and start swapping parts untill you find the bad one. Finally; If nothing helps, send me a plain ticket, I'll come and tune/repair it (I'm ready for vacation). Don't do SU conversion! FI is superior and your problem is not usual.
Re: Converting B30E to B30A[160/74] posted by Tim on
Monday, 15 June 1998, at 12:56 a.m.
I have a 74 B30E in my 71 164, the conversion was not that hard to SU-HS6 it was finding a good pair. I plugged the F.I. ports with soft plugs and JB weld and stuffed a few bolts with JB on the end's for the extra holes. I put a inline fuel regulator in and set it for 3lbs, big mistake after several set's of plug's and points I have settled on 1lb it is great! The other thing to do is take the butterfly's out of the Stromberg manifold and plug them, the SU's also need a set of springs for the butterfly's to snap shut, attached to the manifold. I used the old fuel pump off of my 71engine. And walla you are done except for the carb sync. tool you will need to sync. the draw of each carb. I am now trying to find out if a 74's gearing would make my 71 faster to accelerate,do you know any info that might help?
Good Luck,and let me know if you need help along the way.
Tim.