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suspension clunks: 84 245 DL[240-260/83] posted by Tom Graham on
Wednesday, 10 June 1998, at 11:45 p.m.
I get a heavy clunk from the front end when backing up to the left. The rack, tie rod ends and ball joints are new so I suspect it's a bushing. Which is the most likely culprit? I also get clunks from the rear when taking up and releasing the clutch. Interestingly these clunks seem more noticeable during wet weather. Also when wet and at cruising speed, punching the gas steers the car slightly to the left and sudden let-up on the gas steers me to the right. Is this also a worn bushing? The car has 181K and is doing great otherwise (except for no A/C). Thanks for your help. Tom
Re: suspension clunks: 84 245 DL[240-260/83] posted by Paul S on
Thursday, 11 June 1998, at 3:58 a.m.
Join the SBVC (Shot bushing Volvo Club)....front more than likely control arm bushings...
Paul S. (Mr. Project 245T that went outside...for mixture help....)
Re: suspension clunks: 84 245 DL[240-260/83] posted by Steve Seekins on
Friday, 12 June 1998, at 8:34 a.m.
In addition to the lower control arm bushings, do not overlook the INNER tie rod ends - usually worn as a result of damaged steering rack boots.
For the front cross member - tightening the bolts is a regular service item. If you find yours are not tight, I recommend that you installl the optional factory lower braces that bolt from the cross member (existing holes) to the control arm bushing buckets (must drill these holes). Simple installation and helps greatly to firm up the cross member.
Rear clunks and torque steer are trailing arm bushings and/or torque rod bushings. Trail arm bushing replacement requires special tool - a few members have them to rent for small fee - but they are in high demand. Manual tool costs about $150-$200 from Volvo, hydraulic tool is about $1500. Trail arm bushings are pressed into tabs welded on the axle and must be done on the car (unless you plan to remove the entire rear axle!). Torque rod bushings need heavy duty hydraulic press if you use stock bushings. However, if you use the IPD poly bushings, you can remove old ones with drill, hacksaw, and cold chisel, and new IPD ones can be inserted by hand. Old style torque rods have no OEM replacement bushings - requires new rods which come with new bushings installed. IPD does have poly bushings for both styles of torque rods.
Steve Seekins,