BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Paul S. on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 8:25 a.m.
Ahh good to be back....up....
Remember the 262C clunk and the ensuing debate about strut tubes?
Steve Seekins replied on a series of diagnostic steps as to the cause. It was definitely not a lose large flat nut on the strut tube.
After removing wheels, shaking things, grabbing things with large channel locks (and shaking them), I think my clunk is: Bad Ball Joints.
Questions:
How much do ball joints cost?
How nasty of a job is replacing dead ball joints?
Paul
The dude with the 855 and 262C.....
Re: Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Bill Odom on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 10:53 a.m.
A ball joint replacement is pretty straightforward. You will need a ball-joint splitter tool. If you're not familiar with it, it looks like a wedge shaped tuning fork with a long handle on it. After you remove the nut on the tapered pivot pin on the joint, the tool is used to unseat the pin from the wheel spindle lug. The tapered fork goes between the spindle lug and the joint and then you whack the doodoo out of it with a large hammer. If you don't have one, you can probably rent, or borrow one. They're not too expensive anyway and nearly impossible to do without for this. After that, the joints just unbolt from the lower A-frame. Not sure on your car, but on my '81, there are right and left joints; pay attention to which one is which when you remove them. Better yet, do one side at a time. Expect to pay $50 to probably $80 each for them (see post for Volvo Parts Cheap; dealer in St.Louis). I don't recommend the Vera brand that some parts stores carry. I had to replace a set of those within about 20k miles and the Volvo ones weren't any more expensive.
Other sources of clunks: lower A-frame pivot attachments (to unibody), A-frame pivot pin wear, and motor mount cross-member attachment bolts loosening (again to unibody).
Good luck.
Bill
Re: Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Jack Austin on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 3:11 p.m.
Paul...Bill is right, but I paid $21.00 each for my TRW units at Clyde Jones Auto Parts (real name-no kidding!). There are left and right units. The only time that Volvo used the same ones for both sides was for strut cars (240 series) that did not have power steering.
Re: Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Jack Austin on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 3:02 p.m.
Paul...My Man!...I just had the same experience with Kathleen's 240 (exact same suspension) and I did the fix in about an hour and fifteen minutes in my driveway at night during an electrical storm with two big dogs fighting over my leg. Well, not really, but I did do it in a little over an hour. First thing though, jack the car up and let the front suspension just dangle. Use a LARGE pair of pliers inserted through the spring coils to tighten the large nut holding the shock insert down into the strut tube. Pull it TIGHT. Then go drive the car to make absolutely sure that this wasn't the cause of the rattle. If the rattle is still there, jack the front end up and pull off the wheel/tire assembly. Remove the ball joint along with its mounting plate from the control arm and the strut. Some prying and cussing may be appropriate here but it can be done without having to go to confession. An air wrench would be nice but one is certainly not necessary. I did't even bother to have the front end aligned afterward and there is no sign of odd tire wear. Use good quality replacment parts (Volvo or TRW) and they will be of the exact same dimensions as the original ones so the geometry won't be changed.
Re: Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Paul S. on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 3:17 p.m.
Yeah I did the tight with the large nut thing. Practically popped a hernia - well, I do have litttle pain on the right, and a bulge on the left - let's not go there. Suffice to say: It's tight!
Anyway - I was thinking I need to fully remove the strut assembly to get the ball joint out. Am I dreaming? I'm at work and all my manuals are at home. How is the strut end attached to the strut tube unit. I know the control arm end is held on with three bolts.
Paul
Re: Ball joints/ Da big CLUNK[ALL/1988] posted by Jack Austin on
Tuesday, 27 January 1998, at 3:37 p.m.
Absolutely NOT! Other than taking the wheel off, you only have to remove the two bolt/nuts holding the ball joint flange to the lower control arm, the four small cap screws holding the cover to the bottom of the strut and finally the large nut holding the ball joint to the strut. Two wrench sizes and a socket for the ball joint nut. You could make matters a little easier by undoing the caliper mounting bolts and lifting it out of the way a bit, but it isn't necessary to break the hydraulic line and take it all the way off. I've read many of your postings Paul and there isn't a doubt in my mind that you won't be able to do this blindfolded in an hour and thirty minutes flat both sides. You can easily squeeze it in between supper and Law and Order tonight. I'm snowed in in the western North Carolina mountains, sitting in my cave office in my basement conversing with you at work almost in real time! Shazamm! Technology is just simply amazin', ain't it.