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Re: OD Questions[200/1982] posted by jean vilters on
Friday, 11 December 1998, at 12:53 p.m.

Guys,
do not use clutch(Stop pussy footing these OD's)
stay on the gas and flip the button. and it should go into OD right there!
the "wear-and-tear" you save by pressing the clutch you loose in
more wear and tear in clutch cable and pressure plate.!

the OD clutch is a very similar to a clutch in an automatic trans.
Also the OD has a planitary gear, designed to be shifted underload and
at speeds.

You have to be a little rough with it otherwise you can get glazing of
the cone clutch(making the OD "lazy")!

If the OD still hesitates i'd look into oil level first....the OD oil comes
from the 4 speed section of the transmission but can drop low without
notice when you check the level in the main box.
Next I'd replace the actuating pistons with the new style with Teflon
(Oh My, not the dreaded Teflon, hihi) seals.
If you have access to a Hi pressure Oil Pressure gauge, check the OD pressure while driving.

(These OD boxes are far more bullet proof than most people think!)

hope this helps
jv
(Shameless Plug - unrelated to Bricks)


Re: OD Questions[200/1982] posted by Duane on
Saturday, 12 December 1998, at 1:54 a.m.

Jean recently wrote:
Seems like the Volvo engineers are at odds with his method. After experience with a few
hundred thousand vehicles, they changed the method to depressing the clutch while engaging and
disengaging the OD sometime around 1981 or 1982.

They were having problems with the cone clutch being destroyed and the rollers in the
overrunning clutch being damaged. In addition, the extra fibers being worn off the cone
clutch were also causing problems floating around the OD.

Cost to repair the OD starts at around $400 and goes up rapidly. Cost to replace with used
probably starts around $150 and up.

Clutch cable at max of about $60 and the few thousand miles less on the pressure plate is still
cheaper than an OD repair. Consider it insurance. Money spent but no physical tangible return.

Not in the J units. The A and D type OD's did have a band style planetary control system that was similar to automatics.

The planetary system can take the load. The method to bring the sun gear via the cone
clutch to zero RPM from 2500 RPM or above to enable a speed increase cannot. The
method likes to sheer the center out of the cone clutch. Add some extra load and the OD will fail
eventually.

The cone clutch should not slip while it is engaged. This would allow the sun gear to rotate thus
defeating the purpose of the planetary system. It is better if the friction material is not glazed.

Glazing comes from heating of a friction material while coated with a petroleum based product.
Just what occurs as the cone clutch bathed in ATF or motor oil contacts the brake ring to stop the sun gear and speed up
the annulus case effecting the OD.
It also happens when disengaging as the cone clutches inner clutch material contacts the annulus
case and accelerates from zero to plus 2000 RPM. Allowing this contact to occur in the
shortest least stressful method minimizes the glazing that normally occurs.

Ever have an oil impregnated clutch not slip? How about oil soaked brakes?

<> some good advice

<(These OD boxes are far more bullet proof than most people think!)

Yours is testimony to that fact.

Duane
83 245 LH 2.0 M46 170xxx
85 245 LH 2.2 AW70? or 71? 124xxx
The OD Guru (Laycock only)




 


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.



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