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Tension gauge for 16v timing belts[700/1989] posted by Joe Murphy on
Wednesday, 2 December 1998, at 7:19 p.m.
I would like to try replacing the timing belts on my 740 GLE wagon with the B234F, 16-valve, engine. The Volvo manual calls out a tension gauge, P/N 998 8500, that has no units of measure for what it measures. Can anyone tell me a source of this tool, or a good substitute, and the approximate cost?
I would also like to know of a good (reasonable price) source for the belts, etc. as well as other parts for this engine. I tried IPD, but they said the engine is rare enough that they don't bother. I live in the Seattle area, but would be happy to mail order if the price and selection is good.
I would also gladly accept any tips at doing this job. Thanks for your help on this matter.
Joe Murphy
????[700/1989] posted by johnb on
Thursday, 3 December 1998, at 12:36 p.m.
It gets worse. Volvo also recommends a new tool to compress the automatic tensioner, a tool 999-5456-2, that replaces the previous instruction to use a vise to compress the tensioner. Now, a vise is NOT supposed to be used to compress the tensioner.
Which begs the question, if the tensioner is automatic, why does a tension gauge need to be used? Maybe the tensioner just automatically maintains the tension set with the original tool rather than automatically set the tension like on the B230 engines......
Re: ????[700/1989] posted by Ross Gunn on
Sunday, 6 December 1998, at 6:48 a.m.
The automatic tensioner was not used in 1989. It was introduced mid '90. An '89 engine cannnot be retrofitted with the automatic tensioner.
--Ross
Re: Tension gauge for 16v timing belts[700/1989] posted by Ross Gunn on
Sunday, 6 December 1998, at 6:46 a.m.
Tension gauge: an alternative suggested to me by a qualified mechanic is to try to twist the belt at the midpoint of the longest unsupported run. If it is tensioned correctly, you shuld be able to twist the belt 90 degrees.
Other points:
1. Before removing the old belt, turn the engine by hand to get the timing marks all lined up (crank, both cam shafts). From this point on, don't turn the crank or cam shafts! Valve damage can occur.
2. You will also be replacing the balance shaft belt. Its tension is correct if you can hear a slight hum/howl from the drivers seat. This sound varies in pitch with engine RPM. Don't replace the plastic belt covers until you are satisfied with this tension. The slight howl should disappear as the belt wears in.
3. Have a look at the tension adjusting pulley for the balance shaft belt. If it has black plastic teeth, get rid of it. The current replacement is all metal. It is easy to distinguish beteween the old and the new pulleys - the old one has a flat surface with a recess for an allen key for adjusting its position. The new one has a hex protrusion that requires a 24mm wrench (clockwise to tighten the belt). The teeth of this pulley failed on my car, causing the timing belt to jump and damage all the exh. valves. The $80 price for the new pulley is cheap!
4. I have been able to get all the parts I needed for this engine from a local jobber that specialises in Volvos. A little digging was required, but he found valves, gaskets etc. The belst is such a critical item, I got it from Vovlo. The one I removed appeared to be in excellent condition and had the Federal Mogul name on it - no doubt from a jobber (car was new to me, so source unknown).
--Ross