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Re: tranny fluid preferences?[ALL/1998] posted by Jarrod on
Sunday, 21 September 1997, at 2:54 p.m.
Just searched the board for a thread specific to this and to my surprise
there was none. If I had a good manual yet for my 240 I would not have to ask this
but here goes....
I know Redline something or other is the one that always get's mentioned but say I was to go to Target
or Big Wheel Rossi to buy some fluid for my automatic transmission. What is a good brand?
And which kind (no manual but a god-awful Chilton's to reference)?
BTW, got the baby running! I had to put on a new hanging bearing
between the two segs of drive shaft. Super cheap stuff from Ipd.
The glorified plunger that wraps around the bearing was over $40
at the local Dealer (Borton Volvo) but only $12 from ipd including
the retaining spring ($3.50 from Borton). Also, for those in the
Twin Cities area: Certified Transmission Parts is great in my book. Took them
two minutes to use the press and they charged me nothing!
Gotta go. The alternator and/or wires related to alternator are pooped
out on my car. Battery does not maintain a charge.
For those with parts and advice on parts:
I need an alternator, a fuel pump and that thing next to it (fuel distributor?).
I will likely go through ipd again for these parts.
Happily Volvoing Again,
-jarrod
Re: tranny fluid preferences?[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Sunday, 21 September 1997, at 10:52 p.m.
Jarrod The Haynes manual is in the box with the grilles, on top as you open it up.
The thing next to the fuel pump is the fuel accumulator which keeps pressure on the line when the engine/fuel system is shut off.
Instead of a new alternator get the old one rebuilt, it probably the brushes but a good overhaul can't hurt-if it's a Bosch 70 Amp it's worth it. A new one is $200+ and a rebuild is only about $75 and make 'em rebuild yours not a swap so the pulley is the same. Check the alt. wiring by the oil prssure sender, the wires can get cooked and short aginst the block, also drop the belly pan and check where they pass under the engine behind the main pulley. Take a gander at the steering boots as well.
It also might be a good idea to pull the grille and sand the inside edge where the grille rests. The tabs can scratch upthe paint and by the time ou see the rust it's all over the inside portion.
Swap all the old fuses for glass and clean the holders.
Enjoy the ride!
BTW-What color?
Stoney
Re: tranny fluid preferences?[ALL/1998] posted by Henry T. Mui. on
Monday, 22 September 1997, at 2:09 a.m.
Jarrod,
Redline is a synthetic transmission oil thay you can locate at the below
toll frre number. 1-800-624-7958. I mostly use the Dextron III AFT that meets
OEM standards. It's a parts store brand (no name) but, is blended for them
by Shell! It's just a matter of taste and how much you want to spend on a quart of the stuff. If you really want an option as to which transmission oli is the
may I suggest you go to your local libary and check out the index section of Consumer's Report on tramsmission oil tests! As long as I follow the transmission oil change schedule, the transmission is good for another 100,00
miles (I hope!). I think she's due for a transmission re-build soon! Ah! I'll wait until she really needs it!
Re: tranny fluid preferences?[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Monday, 22 September 1997, at 11:27 a.m.
Tranny fluid should be treated like engine oil: keep it clean and use brand name stuff. Like Henry, I use store brand fluid (carquest) made by Valvoline, and change it once a year. I'd only put 75k on my ZF4hp22 before it started slipping in all gears. The total milage is 250k on it. The thing just wore out, and I can't say it was abused since it's behind a diesel. The transmission shop gave me all my parts back and all the discs were worn down to the metal base. It had a good life. You can clean the filter and reinstall it, might keep the fluid flowing better. About that alternator; find an auto electric shop to repair it. It's much cheaper that way. The alt on my Peugeot lost its bearings once. Up until it froze up it was charging just fine. Cost me $23 with repair and test. They said it would only last me a couple of years more... it lasted 10 more though I haven't seen it in 2 years. Rear end lube I change every two years.
Re: tranny fluid preferences? -- Alternator Rebuild[ALL/1998] posted by Jarrod on
Monday, 22 September 1997, at 4:19 p.m.
Funny how these threads can mutate.
Has anyone out there rebuilt on of these themselves?
Also, I have one from a '72 144 in my storage closet and I'm
scratching my head about to come up with what probabbly is a stupid idead....
If the 140 alt doesn't work as is maybe I can swap the guts. No?
I know it's probably best to go with the quality rebuilt alt so that
I can avoid worrying about whether my rigged job will continue work or no but....
Found a service that rebuilds for $98 and another for $131. Does anyone
in the Twin Cities know of a good place for this?
And finally, I have another question that is an atttempt to turn this thread
in yet another direction:
How do I know my fuel pump is shot? Actually, for that matter, how do I
know if my alternator is truely shot? I checked it with a cheapo dumb
LED driven tester that told me that the battery was getting 5V and the when directly attached to the alt it said that was giving me only 5 as well.
*sigh* Do I know how to pick a car or what? BTW, the hanging bearing job went smoothly.
-jarrod
Re: ATF, fuel pump, Alternator, et al.[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Tuesday, 23 September 1997, at 10:59 a.m.
ATF, I think we've covered that one to the satisfaction of most.
Fuel pump: Find a "T" compatable with gas and install it between the pump and the engine. Install a guage on the tap you've just created. For carburetted engines 0-15# is adequate, for fuel injected engines 0-30# guage should do.Start the engine and read the guage at various engine speeds. I dont know what the specs are but you'll know if the guage drops dramatically. Then check the fuel filter. Remove it if possible to confirm results. If unable to remove filter, did fuel line into a gas can and compare your results.
Alternator: sometimes known as a spring-loaded jigsaw puzzle. Unless you really want to know what's inside it''s not worth it, especially if it works. If at all possible, I'd try to fit the older alt on the car and change only the pulley. If the position of the mountings don't seem to be in the same places, but you think it might work, you can "clock it". That is rotating one part of the alternator in relation to the rest in order to fit it correctly. Take a long, hard look at both to see if its going to work and to find out if its worth the time. Some shops charge a standard rate for a "rebuild" and a higher rate for them furrin' parts. Find one that will do what is needed, and yes, replace those bearings.
Use a volt meter to check the Alt. Read the battery with key off ~12.5vdc. Read batt. with key on. Read batt. at crank, this shouldn't drop past 9.5-10vdc. Then the grand daddy: Read the meter with engine running. Rev the engine slightly above idle 1500- 2000 and you should get anything between 13 and 15vdc depending on state of charge and accessories on.
I'm tired now, and I gotta pee.
Re: ATF, fuel pump, Alternator, et al.[ALL/1998] posted by Joseph Kmiec on
Wednesday, 24 September 1997, at 12:12 p.m.
For fuel injected cars fuel pressure gauge 0 to 30 psi will not do, you need 0 to 60 psi. and you can get a good one VDO from Imparts.
For example in 740 the right fuel pressure is 36 psi.
Do you know the fuel hose size or the "T" size that will go on fuel line.
Joseph Kmiec
Re: ATF, fuel pump, Alternator, et al.[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Wednesday, 24 September 1997, at 12:25 p.m.
Thanks for the correction for guage range, I'm used to working with domestic rust. As for the fuel line T, cut and look, I drive an oil burner (read diesel) 1/4" T should suffice..
Re: ATF, fuel pump, Alternator, et al.[ALL/1998] posted by Joseph Kmiec on
Wednesday, 24 September 1997, at 1:03 p.m.
Ed,
The hose that runs fuel from fuel pump to fuel rail is a push-lok hose, so I have to get a push-lok fittings. I could "cut & look" but I'm not that curious, I don't like to take a bus :-)
Ps. Ed, I had a problem sending you this message privately, I got an unknown TCP/IP error.
Joseph Kmiec
Re: ATF, fuel pump, Alternator, et al.[ALL/1998] posted by Steve Seekins on
Thursday, 25 September 1997, at 7:57 a.m.
You should be careful when dealing with fuel injection systems on the Volvos. The fuel pumps are capable of putting out 60 to 80 psi, and if there is a problem with the fuel pressure regulator or a stoppage in the fuel return line, whatever you have plumbed up to the fuel system will experience this high pressure. I would recommend that you NOT have any fuel plumbing enter the passenger compartment. If you wish to use a fuel pressure gage, use a pressure transduer and an electric gage. Make sure that ALL devices, connections and hoses are capable of withstanding full fuel pump pressure.
There are different regulated pressures used on the 700 series engines depending on which variant of the fuel injeciton system you have. The earlier B230F used a nominal fuel pressure of 36 psi. The B230FT used 43psi. The later engines (possibly starting in 89) used higher pressures with different injectors.
I called these 'Nominal' pressures because the fuel rail pressure on the LH Jetronic systems is adjusted for manifold vacuum/pressure. This maintains the fuel pressure at a specific amount above the manifold pressure to assure proper injection volumes (that is the purpose of the vacuum line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold). The stock pressure regulator is a 1:1 ratio meaning that the fuel pressure varies by the same amount as the manifold pressure. Other ratios are available from aftermarket sources (2:1, 3:1, and 4:1) that provide additional enrichment with higher manifold pressures to support addional engine performance options.
Those engines with K-jetronic systems (B28F and B21FT) also used higher control pressures in the 60 to 80 psi range.
Steve
Volvo Club of America