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Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Richard E Katilavas on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 4:34 p.m.
Today, eleven days after it all started I was told my 1984 265GL Diesel, 5speed Manual {wagon} w 145,000 is dead from floor pan cancer, and there is not enough good metal stock to make repairs.
On 10/17/97 I was originally told the problem was just the central thrust bearing on the two piece drive shaft. That this would take approximately 1-1.5 hours and that it would cost $119-175.00 depending on parts and time.
When the bearing failed, I immediately slowed down, and drove the car slowly and gently to the dealers. The 12-15 mile trip took me about 2-1/2 hours. I was away from home, and drove straight to the dealer. I heard what sounded like a bad bearing after the failure, and smelled hot rubber that I was told was the bushing rubbing on the shaft. I told the service rep how I had babied the car to their shop and instructed them to drive it slowly and gently to the service bay so that no further damage was done.
Later that day I got a call to tell me that the bearing had twisted the bracket when it failed {-which to me means that car would no longer be drivable-} that the bracket bolts had rusted to the frame, and that when the bracket twisted it ripped out a whole in the floorpan, under the back seat.
and... and the floor pan was so rusted there that another bracket could not be installed, and that unless the floor pan was patched, the car could not be repaired.
So the car was taken to the main dealership, because the local shop does not do body work, and the body shop said yes they could fix it. They asked if I wanted the bracket area patched, or if I wanted the whole floor plan fixed. The patch would be $640.00 and the whole floor pan repair would be $1180.00. Since I was having the car repaired to get anothe five years out of it, and the mechanic said the diesel was running well, I chose the whole floor pan repair for $1180.00.
Today after another week I got a call from the service rep. The body shop had started the work to repair the floor pan. When they removed the left front seat and the undercoating there was no good metal to MIG weld the new floor plates against. I was told the rocker panels, the fender wells, etc are all gone. The body man said he had no idea the rust had gotten that far until he tried to start the work.
I have a minor and a major problem.
The minor problem is that I am concerned if they are right, when I concede repairs cannot be made, they will simply load the interior parts back into the body shell, and try to tell me they cannot reinstall them, or that they have to charge me to reinstall them, or that if they do reinstall them, it will be a cobble job and not the way the car was when it got there.
The major problem is that I am worried I am getting stuck with a problem caused by some hot service rep/car jockey who went tearing into the shop, and ripped the bracket then, by disregarding my instructions to drive it slowly and gently into the shop, after I left.
Given the way Volvo prepares cars, and given the fact that I have been conscientious about washing the undersides of the car off during the winter months, it is hard to understand how the floorpan is in that shape. The body shop will let me see the car, and I will go there tomorrow. The car was garaged except for two years when I first came back to the Midwest, but it was always washed underneath during the winter months even then.
Should I just give up, should I try to start a dialogue with Volvo North America, or should I try to find the most agressive lawyer I can and not waste time or energy? I do not sue people, and wonder if I am not just emotionally trying to deny the fact that 14 years of good service is reasonable. But the fact that I am suspicious, when I am not normally suspicious or cynical, makes me wonder what I am picking up?
The other question, given the reported state of the floor pan is whether, if the body shop can somehow do miracles, it would make sense to replace the OEM two piece drive shaft with an after-market one piece drive shaft? And if so where would I start looking for one. I live near Joliet, IL outside of Chicago.
What are the thoughts and recommendations of BrickBoard readers? If I can get feedback in the next day or two it would help. Thanks
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Paul S. on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 9:07 p.m.
Wow.
It is truly amazing that a car of this age could have this much rust, and you didn't realize it!!! Was your heater core leaking?
You need to examine the car ASAP.
I doubt you'll ever be able to finger a car jockey for further damaging your car at the dealer. From what I understand most folks get over 150K from their drive shaft bearings.
I don't know what else to tell you, but: Watch out for rust!!
Paul Seminara VCOA Member # 9417
1996 855O 16K miles "THE BLUE GOOSE" Reliable regardless of rumors.....
1981 262C Bertone 170K "THE BLUE BLENNY" Ready for the road......
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 11:25 p.m.
Richard,
You have just discovered the automobile version of Cancer. It can slowly work its way under the floor pan, and eat the entire car under the undercoating, paint, carpets, etc.
Considering the age of the car VCNA will do nothing for you, their rust warranty is only 5 years. I have seen the same problem on VW Bugs, Alfa Romeo Spiders, and so on....all were Rust Belt cars and were babied like yours. The road salt gets everywhere and you have just become a victim.
You should replace the car with another one, or try and find a good used Diesel wagon with a dead engine/tranny (not too difficult considering the posts we see here about folks wanting to put a gas engine in a diesel body) and swap the guts of yours over to it.
But I wouldn't trust the present body to stand up to any sort of accident, the rust has compromised the strength and design that Volvo put into it at the factory.
Hey I know you are angry, feeling like you just got screwed without being kissed, but you found out BEFORE you were in a bad accident and the body crunched like a peanut shell! Look around for another good used Diesel Volvo or maybe try one from Arizona, Texas, and places where there is little rust.
Best of luck!
Stoney
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 11:36 p.m.
If you MUST continue to torture yourself with stinky diesel you can find a good one in California for $ 1500. In running condition! No rust ! Otherwise, send a box of chockolade and 10 roses to you dealer and feel FREE.....
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 11:43 p.m.
Here's free price info: www.recycler.com Check every Monday for cheap, rustfree Diesels in Los Angeles, Las Vegas and San Diego area. Good excuse for winter vacation, too.....
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Richard E Katilavas on
Thursday, 30 October 1997, at 1:20 a.m.
OK trying for closure as per guidelines.
The car died naturally, and fought valiantly all the way. The dealer here was not to blame, did not miss anything. But someone successfully scammed me on earlier body work that only masked and did not solve the problem, although I paid to have the problem solved, to have the unibody cut out and repaired, etc.
The other theory is that because I am not 5'8" and weigh more than 135 pounds, that my large size and weight "stressed" the floorpan portion of the underbody [does anyone know the average size and weight of swedish males in Sweden] causing micro-cracks in the undercoating and galvanic-neutralizing primer, etc, exposing the frame to micro-infiltration of road salts, galvanic reactions, and each time I got in or out of the car I aggravated the problem by opening and closing these micro cracks with my size and weight, and that the high-pressure undercarriage cleaning only "forced" the salt molecules deeper into the micro-cracks and micro-crevices sort of like tooth decay.
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Erickson on
Thursday, 30 October 1997, at 1:58 p.m.
About ther only way to keep a car from rusting away in the northren
climates where they use salt on the roads is to not drive it in the winter.
Some cars seem to hold up better than others, but during my search for
older Volvo's this summer, the 82's and 83's I found in the cheaper price
ranges ($1,000 and down) all had rust, one had both tire wells completely gone and the floor was not far behind. And this was on an 83 with 138,000 miles
My 83 had 165,000 and was solid but still has some spots.
Don't blame yourself, just remember on your next Volvo you know where to
look for the Rust to start.
Mark
83 240Dl 169,000
Re: Did my Volvo Diesel Die Peacefully and Naturally, or did the Dealer Kill It?[ALL/1998] posted by Evan on
Thursday, 30 October 1997, at 4:49 p.m.
Re: Rust, etc... I just bought an '83 244DL with 150K mi. Rusty? hell yes! Spare tire well - gone. Same on the pass side of trunk. Rockers? pretty shabby. But the floor pan and the strut mounts are rock solid. Oh yeah, I paid $750.
So... I'm in Michigan. Cars rust here. In fact, they use more salt to make your car rust faster. Remember, Michigan MAKES cars. Your car rusts, you buy another, boom, more money for Michigan.
So I spend $750. I'd rather lose that paltry sum to the rust demons than lose the $35K for a new Volvo, wouldn't you?
I figure like this: I pay $750, drive the thing for a year or two, then sell the motor (low miles) and M46 to some poor sap with a dying 240 for $500. Bingo, car cost me $250 to drive for 2 years. That's less than ONE lease payment on a 1998!
Re: Did my Volvo Die Peacefully, YES, it did.[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Thursday, 30 October 1997, at 6:45 p.m.
RIGHT! Buy a car, then park it! Boy, I wish I had that kind of money. This IS the rust belt ( Read Midwest) I have a hard time just finding space for my BMW's (motorcycles that is) in the winter. The Volvo is a driver. (a one wood please...)
I'm sorry you folks have to save your Buicks for winter; if you cared that much you'd drive it year round. I believe you don't have to buy american if you can buy Quality AND expect it to last. ( Up the Union) That's my opinion, but then again, I may be wrong. ED7 '86 740 Turbo DIESEL wagon w/ 230,000 mi (all in michigan)