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Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Rex Facer on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 3:59 p.m.
Just wondering if anyone has any important pieces of advice on replacing the timing belt in an 85 244. For example, in addition to the belt, should I replace front seals (it's not leaking oil)? The haynes manual is fairly clear, and I will have my dad who is a mechanic there to hold my hand, but he doesn't specialize in volvos, so just want to make sure there isn't something tricky or quirky that I should be aware of. Thanks -- Rex 85 244 102k
Re: Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Svein A. Strande on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 6:48 p.m.
Hi Rex.
I just have a coupel of advice. If the tighting weel is schwiking, replace it.
The is another importent advice, be sure that the markings are on there right place. If you should be careless, or something like that, and mis the timing by 180 deg. you will bend the valves. DONT DO THAT.
I recemend the Volvo 240 service manual by Robert Bentley..
There it is better shown how to do it.
Drive safely
Svein
Re: Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 10:21 p.m.
Svein is right. Verify the timing marks before you pull the old belt off. Make sure all the timing makrs line up correctly. The crank pulley (harmonic balancer) can spin and throw the marks WAAAYYY off. This would be the best time to change this (obviously), if the marks are off.
Once you get the timing covers off, you can get a better look at the front seals. If they are seeping at all, now is the time. There is a special seal installer for the crank seal which prevents the seal lip from being folded out during installation. If you don't have this tool, be very sure of proper seal installation.
If you get the marks lined up properly, you won't have to adjust the ignition timing. If you use a Volvo belt, they come with little white lines which correspond with the marks on the gears.
Re: Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Yosemite Sam on
Friday, 31 October 1997, at 6:03 p.m.
You have to remove the harmonic balancer anyway. Mine went bad- did you know it's an assembly? So check it like this: put the shaft in a vise, squeeze it a bit and try to rotate the pulleys by hand. If they move, you'd better get another harmonic balancer. Talk to the parts counter guy, ask him how many harmonic balancers they sell. I suspect he'll say "Lots".
The timing marks on the harmonic balancer and on the cam pulleys are important, so if your harmonic balancer/lower pulleys aren't right, you won't get it timed. My Haynes talked about that, but until I actually replaced the timing belt (and other stuff which my daughter's negligence caused), I couldn't make sense of the Haynes. Try reading the book awhile before you begin, if you can.
Re: Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Friday, 31 October 1997, at 6:49 p.m.
There is a mark on the outermost oil slinger/belt guide plate which is between the balancer and the toothed gear. This notch lines up with a small casting in the aluminum flange which the seals are fit into. These can be used to time everything if you know the balancer is spun. The spun balancer needs to be replaced soon since they can get loose enough to come apart.
Re: Timing Belt Replacement 244 b230f[ALL/1998] posted by Yosemite Sam on
Monday, 3 November 1997, at 4:58 p.m.
And those harmonic balancers/pulleys can loosen to the point where the pulley won't turn. No turn, no water pump rotation. No water pump flow, BEEEEG TROUBLES!!! Like a warped head, blown turbo seals (oil everywhere), blown turbo, cooked water pump, exploding radiator, more verrr-rrry bad things.
I guess you should time the motor by the crankshaft and camshaft marks. But it's tough to guess at when you're tearing apart the motor....