BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
740 Power Windows[ALL/1998] posted by Dow Ford on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 11:22 a.m.
Hello folks. Thanks for all the help you've all given me as I unravel the myteries of my 86 740GLE. Help from here helped me to rework the emission system--totally stopped up--, replace the heater core (talk about intimacy with your car), and figure out why the trunk is always wet on the left rear!
What I want to know now is this: All of my power windows work except the front driver's side (shotgun, as we call it). Can I take the motor out of one of the rear doors and transfer it to the front? No body ever rides in the back and I don't care if I can raise and lower the window back there. I'm open to other suggestions if this doesn't sound logical.
Thanks
Re: 740 Power Windows[ALL/1998] posted by Yosemite Sam on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 12:38 p.m.
I replaced the whole assembly when the rear left side didn't quite go all the way up. So what to do for your car? I'd make sure there's nothing like a loose wire causing the problem. You've got to take off the inner door skin and look aound with a flashlight to see what's goin on. There's a LOT of stuff in there, including all the wiring for the other three windows, door locks, speakers, etc. You might find the problem is with the switch. Mine wasn't good either. But that's from another time I took the door apart. You'll need an afternoon, a multimeter and (maybe) some clips to bypass the switches. All this to see what the problem is. Before you take out the regulator and motor, make sure it isn't the switch. Volvos are one of Sweden's finer accomplishments, but even the Vikings didn't have much luck with plastics and switches. Plenty sharp with fabricating steel, though.
All the above drivel means- check to make sure it's the motor before you go any farther. If you check for power coming into the switch, then check for power otu and still can't get the motor to run, you might have to remove it. If you get it out, you can test it better. If it is the motor, you can get another from a dealer(expensive) or from a wrecker (much cheaper) or you might see if a shop somewhere will repair the motor. 7-series Volvos are now about 10 years old, so you should be able to find one in a wrecker. My son got a whole door when he left the rear door open as he backed out of the garage.
And why was your trunk wet? Trunk seal?
Re: 740 Power Windows[ALL/1998] posted by Dow Ford on
Thursday, 30 October 1997, at 10:08 a.m.
Thanks for all the good advice. I'm glad I posted before I dove into the door and ripped the motor out!!
Concerning the wet trunk, the trunk seal had an unusual "wrinkle" it which I was able to rearrange and glue down. No leaks since. Also, my tail lights had about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water in them on the passenger side. There was enough in there that I felt like there was a possibility they could freeze up and burst the lens! I drilled a tiny hole right into the plastic in an inconspicuous place on each lens and drained them.
Re: 740 Power Windows[ALL/1998] posted by Larry on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 3:23 p.m.
Definitely check switches as YS sez. On my 85 wgn, they can be disassembled, the ctc points dressed with a file, and put back in svc for ? many miles. I also had a window motor "loosen" its set screws and jam in an inop position against the window. Re the H20, check rubber drains for proper position (towards rear) so they don't pick up tire spray. Wgn also has funky vents covered by speaker type grills.
Re: 740 Power Windows[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Tuesday, 28 October 1997, at 10:11 p.m.
Definitely make sure the motor is at fault before you tear it out of the door. The switches (drivers door and passenger door) are wired together so when one switch is bad the other MAY not work. The switches do two jobs. One is to supply power to the motor, the other job being to supply the ground signal to the motor. Remember to check for the proper ground. The "signals" will reverse when the switch is pushed in the opposite direction. In other words, one wire will be ground in one direction and provide power in the other direction. Obviously the motor needs both to operate.
The motor could be removed, dissassembled and cleaned if it is faulty electrically. The regulators are not interchangeable from door to door. All four are different.
Keep us posted.