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1997 Rust Protection for a 1989 Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Richard E Katilavas on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 6:27 p.m.
.As posted recently I was lucky to find a clean 1989 Volvo 240DL Sedan that I purchased. Since my 1984 Volvo recently died, and my thanks to all who replied with repair and replacement suggestions, I am concerned about preserving the
integrity of the car's unibody.
..Both Ziebart and other local after companies offer rust-proofing of used vehicles. I would much rather do the work myself, my motivation is higher, but don't have equipment or facilities to do anything beyond simple work. Is this
stuff worth anything? I have been under the 1989 chassis, and it is clean, no signs of rust. Similarly the floorpan looks good in the trunk and under the carpets. Is there anything else worth doing?
...Part of my interest is that the body shop guy who did the autopsy on my 1984 Volvo said the main cause of rust on that vehicle was me. The rust started under, and spread from driver's seat to all points of the floor pan. He said that at 6'1" and 270 pounds I exceed the Volvo's weight capacity; everytime I got in and out of the car, he said, my weight caused the floorpan to flex under the driver's seat where the seat runners were welded to the floorpan. The microflex's caused the undercoating to microcrack, let moisture and salt in, and so on. [BTW I'd love to weigh 150 or 180 pounds, don't think it will happen soon. ]
...Should I look into installing some sort of reinforcing structure, rods or bars, on the underside of the floorpan?
Re: 1997 Rust Protection for a 1989 Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Brian Killins on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 8:49 p.m.
I have been quite successful in maintaining an 1980 240 in Ontario where there is lots of salt. The car is used almost every day, and has about 600k km. There are a couple of important things. First, good floor pans will hold the snow and prevent salty water from your boots from soaking down into the carpet. I've seen cars where the carpets and below are solid salt. Volvo's floor trays for the 240 are very good. I also remove the seats and carpets occasionally, and actually greased the floor using vaseline. For many years, I got the car oil sprayed from below. The oil used is formulated to stick well and migrate into those cracks in the undercoating. I believe it is basically hydraulic fluid with other additives. It is marketed specifically for oil spraying of cars.
If you try to reinforce the area etc, I wonder if you'll end up causing damage to the "finish" which might accelerate the corrosion.
Re: 1997 Rust Protection for a 1989 Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Tube on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 9:06 p.m.
Hej Richard
this guy deserves a Pulitzer for fiction
I would have the car oil sprayed at a Rust Chek,etc etc to slow down the reaction of salt and stuff.I would also like to suggest a good set of floor mats with raise sides to prevent sloshing as you drive.Both sides and even the rear.
If you have a heated garage and can controle the temp keep it as low as possible.Electrochemical reactions speed up with temp.
Try to avoid getting in the car with half the snow bank on your feet,if you can,put old newspaper down for a day and then remove it.and if your going on a long drive put them in the trunk to allow the heat to blow on the floor.It will help to reduce the amount of moisture on the floor.
GL/T
P.S My brother in law is 240+ on a good day and has 450,000km and his floor
has a few cracks and their not from flexing.More like age from the harsh Canuck
winters.
Vlleneuve is on T.V gotta go.
Re: 1997 Rust Protection for a 1989 Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 9:23 p.m.
The Eastwood type soft surface Rust protectant is good, can be done using a simple kit and as long as you can access a air compressor, it is a DIY job.
Look for plugs on Rockers and such, if you find them then someone did it before you-but a recoating woldn't hurt! Use the same holes and get new plugs cause you are gonna break one or two!
Check the door and rear saddlebag area drains for openness, if no any water/salt will collect there and rot! Pull out the spare from time to time and clean the area and drain. Same for passenger side lower area-pull the plastic panel on trunk side far right, great stash spot for tools and such!
If ya have a sunroof, check the rear drains as the hoses can get bumped off and fill the turnk with runoff water! Same for front drains as they drain thru the
A pillar and a clog can flood the fusebox and pillar area a lead to rust forward of the door hinge areas. Spray a light coating of oil on lower door hinge area as salt/sludge will adhere and start to work here. The seamd of the fenderwell should not have gaps as salt can get inside and start to work.
89 was a good year, should last you a few more!
BTW I put a 38-lb woman in the passenger front seat of my 82 245 and never had a problem, except the car "groaned" when she got out!
Re: 1997 Rust Protection for a 1989 Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Richard Katilavas on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 11:18 p.m.
Didn't want to leave the wrong impression about the body shop that tried to help me, but was unable to repair the floorpan of the 1984 265GL unibody......
Wanted to clarify the situation about the rust on my 1984 265GL. I was up at
the body shop, under the car up on a hoist, and they were showing me the
extensive rusting that prevented them from repairing the unibody. When I saw
the damage, the extent, etc I asked the guy what I could have done to prevent
it, since I had done all that I know to do, etc.
He pointed out the pattern of rusting, that it started in the area under the
driver's seat, and spread from there to the rest of the unibody floorpan. He
said that given the pattern of the rusting, the only thing I could have done
was not drive the car, that getting in and out , etc.. etc.