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Brake booster for '67 122S[ALL/1998] posted by Remi Van Audekercke on
Sunday, 23 November 1997, at 1:03 p.m.
I have a Girling brake booster on my '67 122S.
It works very well when there is enough vacuum (cutting the throttle at high revs) but not when cruising down town.
This is very unpleasant and sometimes dangerous since the brakes don't always
respond the same way.
I saw a little tank that served as a vacuum reserve tank in a 164.
My local Volvo dealer said it was also used in some 122's and P1800's and was
mounted under the driver side front fender.
Does anyone know if this gadget works ?
Regards.
Re: Brake booster for '67 122S[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Monday, 24 November 1997, at 8:50 a.m.
Sounds like a serious vacuum leak. Check the hoses, grommet at the booster, and the check valve that plugs into the booster thru that grommet.
Re: Brake booster for '67 122S[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Monday, 24 November 1997, at 10:02 a.m.
Yes - add a vacum tank. German cars have plastic ones or use any from a diesel car. '73-74 142 had one, too. When you have a radical cam with more overlap and 2xDCOE Webers it's normal to have low vacum. Are you taking vacum from ALL cylinders ? Some manifolds have fitting for 1 only. You need to take vacum from all. This will make idle better, too. Be sure you got one-way valve on the line.
Re: Brake booster for '67 122S[ALL/1998] posted by Remi Van Audekercke on
Monday, 24 November 1997, at 11:41 a.m.
Thanks again Topi,
You are right , I only take vacum from one intake pipe.
I will add the tank and take vacum from the other intakes as well.
Is a 280 deg 11mm cam already radical ? How much duration has a C or D cam ?
I also heard about 320 deg 13mm lift cams for B20 but they don't seem
to be streetable. Is there a big performance gain installing a 320 deg instead
of a 280deg cam ?
Regards.
Re: Brake booster for '67 122S[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Monday, 24 November 1997, at 2:14 p.m.
Cams: If you don't know HOW degree & lift are measured, numbers mean nothing! Lobe separation and overlap are as important. Race cam works only if other components are matched. If you put a race cam to the stock motor it will be slower....I don't know C cam specs but they are something like; 265/10.0mm. Volvo gives out these specs (without specifying how they're measured): D= 280/10,8mm K= 277/10.8mm R= 287/11.6mm F= 300/11.3mm S= 300/12.9mm U= 312/12.9mm G= 308/12.3mm. My personal experience is: R= junk (too much overlap and no top end at all) F= Very good, try this (Good all around cam, revs high, too) S= Good power, not for street D= Good all around cam, but doesn't rev high K= only for heavy car and automatic, doesn't rev up. U & G are very radical for light car and for boat racing. But as I sad, don't look at the numbers. Same number cams can have a different performance. F and S have the same duration but S is TWICE as hot! Finally; you can never fit too long intake manifold to B20. The longer, the better! The ideal lenght is 42cm from the intake valve to the velocity stack. This can be done on 142 only!
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Kent Campbell on
Tuesday, 25 November 1997, at 4:05 p.m.
Thank you, Topi. Thank you. First time I've seen Volvo spec's on their grinds.
Good info on not necessarily relying on duration only. Iskenderian grinds nine different cams for the Volvo, I think seven of which are racing only. Isky also offers valve train kits with their cams; the lifters are solid Chevy with proper length lightened pushrods, double valve springs, and retainers. Just put a motor together (2130 cc) with above compoents including ported B20 head using Manley stainless steel Volkswagen valves ( 38 mm ex and 48 mm int). I'll let you know if it stays together. How'd we go from brake boosters to cams??
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Tuesday, 25 November 1997, at 11:11 p.m.
I will tell you what will happen: 1. Isky springs will brake (they're junk) 2... unless keepers will be pulled through Isky aluminum retainers first. 3. Then try to pull Manley "mushroom- stem" valves out the head (Manley SS valves are butter soft). For your NEXT motor use: 1.Toyota 8R or 3KB stock dual springs 2. Stock B21 retainers 3. Manley, SI or any VW valve BUT; Grind the keepers so they lock the valve and DON'T rotate! 0.5mm off will do. Happy motoring.....
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Remi Van Audekercke on
Wednesday, 26 November 1997, at 1:25 p.m.
I fitted 46mm intake and 37mm exhaust valves in my B20 head and they come so close together that I can only can put a fingernail between them.
How did you manage to install 48mm 38mm valves ?
Do you have any specifications about those Isky cams ?
I can get a list of specs from the Kent cam series for the B20, if you are interested I will put it on the board.
Regards.
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Kent Campbell on
Wednesday, 26 November 1997, at 3:55 p.m.
Isky spec's:
Grind No. Type Lift Duration(st up) Duration(@.050)
VV-61 Stock Repl-Torquer .425 256" 228
VV-71 Competition .428 268 ?
VV-81 Competition .428 286 ?
Z-322 Competition .480 280 240
VV-91 Max Competition .480 300 ?
Z-349 Max Competition .510 300 ?
VV-101 Max Competition .480 310 ?
VV-111 Super Competition .480 320 ?
Z-309 Super Competition .538 314 ?
I would be happy to FAX the Isky sheet although you may want to call them for more info @ (213) 770-0930. The spring retainers are steel not aluminum and the pushrods are chrome moly. I believe the 'Z' grinds are roller, but not sure.
When previewing above messege, it appears jumbled from my typed set-up, but the numbers, left to right, are Grind No, type cam, lift, duration straight up, and duration @ .050".
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Kent Campbell on
Wednesday, 26 November 1997, at 4:12 p.m.
Forgot the other question pertaining to oversize valves. You're right, the chamber is full of valves. Machine shop shaved 0.025" off the intake, (I desired the larger exhaust valve). Everything fits real nice. Valves are Manley, part no's 11667 and 11668, designed for the VW Type IV motor, and cost me $12.12 ea. Hope Topi's experiences with Manley valves and Isky springs are under extreme racing conditions. Both companies are pretty reputable. We'll see.
Re: Cam Spec's[ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Wednesday, 26 November 1997, at 6:20 p.m.
I broke many Isky sets with modest cams. I took them back and they just ignored the problem. If you look at them they show all kinds of color = poor heat treating. When Ed himself was in charge I ued many of their products and quality was pretty good. So they went to steel retainers! Finally.... I have special bronze guides to install 48/38 valves. You must drill holes off-set and use my o/s guide. guides are $ 50/set.