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Buying a 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Thom Geer on
Monday, 10 November 1997, at 10:19 a.m.
I am contemplating buying a 1983 240 Wagon. It is at a garage that I have come to trust quite a bit, as I have been restoring an 1800 and often stop in for advice or to borrow tools. I was wondering if anyone could warn me of any known problems with the 83 that I should look out for. There is a fair amount of rust on the bottoms of the doors but this is not surprising with all the salt here in MA. The price I was quoted was $1500. It seems fair considering what I have seen others watgons of this year advertised for. It has 144,000 miles on it and I recently test drove it. Although it lacks the pep of my 1800 it feels like a solid vehicle, hell it feels like a truck compared to the 1800. The repair records check out okay, all the normal maintainence was performed up until the 90,000 mile checkup in the little book in the glove box.
well if anyone has any recommendations please let me know
thans
thom
Re: Buying a 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Evan on
Monday, 10 November 1997, at 1:42 p.m.
Well, I just bought a 244DL, 1983, with 150,000 mi. for $750. Sounds like mine is a little rustier than yours, tho. Check for the white (chrysler) distributor cap. I hear it's bad news.
I'd suggest a offer of $1000. Although Volvos are much more popular in New England than in West Michigan, that might account for some of the difference
Re: Buying a 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by bill debender on
Monday, 10 November 1997, at 8:55 p.m.
I just sold an 82 DL for $1,700 everything worked but the AC, zero rust, just rebuilt the head, replaced rod bearings & rings; replaced the front end bushings, all pumps, belts,battery, pads, shocks even rear wiper mtr . Inside was ok, original paint and very nice body -- it had 240,000 miles.
I found some one that really wanted a nice wagn.
The wgns may not be a sport cars (our other car is a Miata) but we still think the are fun to drive.
For your potential purchase I would sugggest you check under the carpets and the rear storage wells for rust. If rusty passss it. If not have the car looked at by someone familiar with Volvos, besure the fan has been replaced, check the front end bushings and struct bearings, besure to check out the radiator and heater core - on a car this old they are usually partially clogged and will cause the car to over heat and blow the head gascket- a major big problem, I know. Check if the rear fuel pump is working, Check the AC compressor clutch - Ill bet the clutch bearing is about shot, if it seezes it will take out the clutch magnet and brake the belt. (The bearing is replacable and costs about $12 plus 45 min work) if it seeezes $200. Check the the front steering rack for leaks and the condition of the boots. If the boots are torn and neglected dirt contaminates the rack and tie rods. Pay close attention to the condition of the wiring. look for jerry rigging an patched wiring these can cause phantom shorts and blown fuses.
Sounds like a lot of work but Volvos are pretty low tech, they last a long long time and are very repairable autos - but you need to start with a good body to make it worth your effort.
Good luck
Bill D
Re: Buying a 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Evan on
Tuesday, 11 November 1997, at 8:00 a.m.
Well, maybe I just take a different view of Bricks. I want to buy a car for $750-$1000, drive it for a year or 2, and pass it on. Worst case is it blows up in a month and I'm only out a few bucks. I realize that this is very non-Volvo-philic, but I do not want to drive the same car for 15-20 years - I get too bored.
Re: Buying a 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Tuesday, 11 November 1997, at 11:49 a.m.
On the other hand, Oh nevermind. I want to buy a car for $700-1000 and drive it for 10 years. I don't care what brand it is, but we know Detriot can't make a car like that. My old Peugeot Diesel did me great service for 12 years, and I never buy new cars. Let someone else pay the depreciation. My new car,a 745 TD, was 10 years old when I bought it and plan to milk another 10 out of it. So There.
The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Thom Geer on
Tuesday, 11 November 1997, at 2:27 p.m.
The saga continues... armed with information I gathered on the net here at this site and at a few otheres. I valiently traveled to visit the volvo and look at all of its potential problems. To my dismay when I arrived I was informed that the car might already be sold. Somewhat annoyed that I had driven to look at the car I decided to check it out.
I checked the records Air Mass meter etc replaced, recently, cluctch with less than 10,000 miles on it. New tires, tons of mats everywhere one might put there feet. There was some rust mostly at the bottoms of the doors (I have noticed more recent incarnations of the 240 have plastic at the bottoms of the doors how ingenious!!! if you cant solve the problem hide it). The rear wheel wells right above the mud flaps was a small but gaping hole where I presume salt water has been splashed for the past 14 years. I looked under the hood and was not quite able to tell what type engine it was. As I was somewhat annoyed I didn't look very hard.
It did not have the white distributor I have been warned about and the plugs, oil filter oil and transmission fluid had all been recently changed. I looked at the dip stick and the oil was not the darkish mess I find in my 1800 but a nice amber. The underside of the Oil cap was dark but when wiped it was not corroded. The interior was extremely well preserved, leather seats, alarm no water on the floor or corrosion in the fuse box. Looking in the rear where rust is also supposed to accumlate I found that only the wheel wells were ugly and there was a trailer hitch. Well I was pretty upset and I told the guy at the shop that if the offer the other person made didn't work out to call me.
This morning I stopped by the shop and as luck would have it the other interested party was a mechanic at the shop. The guy's wife didn't like all the rust so they decided not to take it. I offered $1500 and they accepted. Now I can take my other car (a 1968 Volvo 1800S) off the road and rebuilt the frame floor board etc. I have been driving the 1800 300-600 miles a week for the past 6 months and it is starting to complain.
Well thanks everyone for the advice and if anyone has any further comments...
I keep you all updated on the 1800 restoration project if anyone is interested.
later
thom
Re: The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by George Wietor on
Tuesday, 11 November 1997, at 8:32 p.m.
I sure appreciated all of the expert opinions from so many enthusiasts.
My own '83 245 gets regular use around town here in Grand Rapids, although I
bike to work. Auto rust conditions in W. Mich. probably similar to Mass.
I agree with all of the earlier comments. A few more generic to my 3 200
series (2 of which are wagons):
Engine mounts. Cheap to buy. Replace if engine looks shaky at idle. Save
your wiring, exhaust, tranny cooler tubes, etc.
Have not located flame trap on my '83, but my '78 B-21 has it on top in some tubing coming out of the valve cover.
Auto tran is slipping a bit when cold. OD takes its sweet time engaging.
Use Gougeon Bros. boatbuilding glue everywhere. Use it to cement loose magnets in windshield wiper motor. (lube the bearings for the wiper arms-they tend to freeze up.)
Disc-sanded and Naval Jellied the rust. Use the boat epoxy, with appropriate fillers, to re-surface. Patched bigger holes in doors, body and spare tire
well with galvanized sheet metal laminated in place with the epoxy. Shape the metal to approximate the wound with lots of overlap. Hold inplace with screws, pop rivets, aircraft CLECO'S (my favorite- a reusable rivet) until the glue sets. I used a random orbit sander sparingly ( heat will soften cured epoxy) after rough rasping. Spray paint from the discount houses (dupli-color at $5/can or real Dupont acrylic for $10-40/ quart, depends on color )
The heater fan is starting to moan. A real job to replace.
Had the tailgate wire replaced, rear defroster and wiper not reliable.
The FI computer suddenly failed, dumping fuel into the cylinders and fouling
the plugs within seconds.
Anyone who buys a car-especially an older, one, needs to start scouting parts-now!
End of musings. Best of luck.
George
Re: The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by Evan on
Wednesday, 12 November 1997, at 8:59 a.m.
George -
You left no email, so I wanted to reply to you in public. We also have an '83 244DL here in Grand Rapids - maybe we could talk...
Re: The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon[ALL/1998] posted by George Wietor on
Wednesday, 12 November 1997, at 7:04 p.m.
Bet my brick was rustier than your brick! Bet my driveway acrylic paint job is shabbier yet!
Seriously, we may be able to start a forum of favorite service and parts providers on a regional basis.
Has anyone visited Jim Blett in Eastmanville?
Honk if you see a tomato red '83 wagon (rectangular headlights) with no visible rust and no hubcaps.
Until minivans became luxurious, the humble Volvo wagon was the East Grand Rapids family squad car of choice. There are a dozen 240's within a brisk walk. Only two of them are mine.
George
wietorg@aol
Re: The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon/Damn sight better than a MiniVan![ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Wednesday, 12 November 1997, at 8:01 p.m.
George, Now, Now...lets not start a Krylon War here! I'm a Rustoleum Barbeque Black man myself!
About the MiniVan replacing the Volvo 240 Wagon....They will start coming back the first time the rear door pops open in a 5 mph wreck and little (insert appropriate gender/ethnic/religeous name here) goes flying across the Mall/School/Intersection/Swim Club parking area!
I rolled/endo'ed my 78 245 and the door still stayed on!
Still trying to figure out how to retrofit the old pre '82 KILLER BUMPERS to my 90 240DL without screwing up the airbag system! My '82 245 used to eat NYCity Taxicabs for lunch!!!
Re: The 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon/Damn sight better than a MiniVan![ALL/1998] posted by Topi on
Thursday, 13 November 1997, at 12:58 a.m.
Stoney - I may be wrong; BUT Volvo Air Bag stuff is all under the seat! No sensors to the bumpers. So, you can swap the bumpers easily. I'm going the other way! I hate those old, big bumpers (they came from Pentapowered Surstromming boats - sailors walk on them) and install '83 & up to the older Volvos.