BrickBoard Archives
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brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Paul Elliott on
Tuesday, 25 March 1997, at 8:35 a.m.
My '95 850 Turbo has beautiful 5 spoke swept alloy 16" wheels, and an awful lot of dust from my stock pads, which almost defeats the purpose of having such beautiful wheels! I've ordered Repco/PBR (Deluxe, not Metal Master) front pads from IPD, which are made of asbestos, and consequently from all I've heard, are virtually dust free, and also provide excellent long life, pedal feel, and fade resistance. If anybody has experience with these pads, I would welcome hearing about it. Thank you.
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Tuesday, 25 March 1997, at 1:48 p.m.
Paul, I've been using PBR/Repco (ipd source) pads for 5 years and prefer them. No noise and clean wheels and I don't really notice a differance in stop/go NY City traffic. Stoney
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Brian on
Tuesday, 25 March 1997, at 7:56 p.m.
Stoney's right. I replaced my last set with 75k on them and they probably could have gone another 10k. They are the best.---Brian
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Paul Elliott on
Friday, 4 April 1997, at 3:32 p.m.
Stoney, I replaced the fronts last weekend on my '95 850 which had only 12000 miles on them, and they do indeed produce no visible dust...But I've picked up an occasional squeal, which was absent on the stock pads. I'm hoping that after I put a few hundered miles on them it will disappear. Also, I think that if I do the rears also, thereby evening out the friction coeficient from front to back, it may take care of it. Any thoughts?? Did you experience any after you did yours?
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Friday, 4 April 1997, at 4:00 p.m.
Paul, I did have a little squeal but after 200 miles or so it went byebye. There ia a anti-squeal grease/gel and sometimes in a pad form, that can be applied to the back of the pad between the pad and piston to even out the vibrations. Ask IPD they might know. I put PBR/Repco on front and rear and had more trouble with rusty calipers due to salt than with pads. I did have rotors turned at local shop cause they looked grooved and they had enough meat on 'em to be used one mo' time. Did you think about diong the fluid as well? My guage is when it looks like a deep ambe lager beer it's time for a change, when it looks like ginger ale it's ok. (This is only my way without any electrotoys and testers).
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Nick Gidakos on
Saturday, 5 April 1997, at 3:13 p.m.
Hi everybody,
I got a response about my brakes on my 1995 850. I think it was Paule but Imay be wrong. Ok question. I took a look at the brakes and I saw the retaining spring and indeed it is a little awkward, but do you need to reach in the inside part of the pad assebly (caliper) and unscrew the two screws and if yes you need to take both of those screws or what. I press the padds and they look pretty worn. I also think I need to resurface the rotors, but how do you take them off. Do you unscrew the nyt in the center of the wheel hub or something? I could not do that(it seem to be way to tight to unscrew.I need a air wrench or what. Any info will be appreciated. In addition does anybody have the haynes manual for Volvo 850(only imported from the UK), can they fax me the pages relevant to brake jobs. That would be very helpfull there is my fax number(make it attention Jean c/o Nick) 510-373-7272.
thanks
Nick
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Paul Elliott on
Tuesday, 15 April 1997, at 7:24 a.m.
Hi Nick, Sorry for the late response, but I havent checked back in a while. The haynes manual is available here in the states (british version only, but its still relevant and helpful) for about $35 from TrollHottan at "Voice line: 1.800.328.7655 - Orders & Parts Inquiries". Basically the steps for the front are: - remove wheel - pop out caliper retaining spring with screw driver - pop off the rubber covers of the 2 7 mm locating pins - with 7 mm hex socket or key, unscrew the 2 caliper locating pins from the back side - lift off caliper and support it by a tie around a suspension part like the spring - remove outboard pad from caliper bracket - remove inboard pad from opening in piston - remove a small amount of fluid from master cylendar - squeeze piston back into bore with channel locks - place new outboard pad in caliper bracket (silicon grease back) - place inboard pad on piston (silicon grease back), and lower onto caliper bracket - replace locater pins - replace their rubber plug covers - replace spring clip retainer. THIS IS TOUGHEST PART. To this point you will only have spent about 10-15 minutes, but this step might take 45 minutes! After you put one end in its hole, the other end is about a 1/2 inch from lining up, so youve got to find a way to stretch the hell out of it til it fits in. Its pretty stiff, so its hard to do, but definitely possible. - replace wheel, start car, step on pedal, and depending on pad type, bed in. - DONE! Any squealing should disappear within 1000 miles.
Re: brake pads[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Miller on
Thursday, 27 March 1997, at 8:05 a.m.
Thank you for your reply. I will get your suggestions checked out. My wife has been the primary driver of the vehicle, used almost exclusively for local (heavy stop/go) driving. This I suspect is the main reason for whatever problems have developed ( the conditions, not her driving!).