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HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Sunday, 16 March 1997, at 1:32 p.m.
I have a dead 240 (140,00) I could use some help with, either further diagnosing or diagnosis. It's my wife's car so I have not driven it for some time. She drove it home from work on Friday, sat all day Saturday, and this morning it was absolutely unresponsive. No dash lights, no sounds, no electrical response, no nothing. I presume it is either the ignition switch, its relay or the main fuse. I've never had a main fuse go out, and I question it as the cause. Any other possibilities.
I will have to take it in, as I don't have the time or current space to work on it, unless it is easy to resolve and easy to get to.
Any suggestions would be appreciated... Shatz
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Weber on
Sunday, 16 March 1997, at 4:27 p.m.
Shatz-
I hate when my Volvo is non-responsive! Seriously, you have several places to start. First - the obvious and commonplace.... Battery cables, main fuel fuse (25amp) in engine compartment, check the fuse block for signs of corrosion. If you have no lights, my first thought is poor battery connections. Does it make a click or is the battery flat? Give us more info!
Bob Weber SW Ohio VCOA 42 Volvos since 1979
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Sunday, 16 March 1997, at 4:54 p.m.
I can't believe a dead battery could give such an unresponsive car, but I might be wrong. I re-emphasize there is NOTHING that happens, clicks, whirrs, groans, buzzes, lights, etc.! I mean it is DEAD. I have never had a main fuse go, but I guess there is a first timee for everything. I will check it and the battery first. I really couldn't believe it was the battery, so I didn't try to jump it yet. Corrosion does not appear to be a problems.
Thanks. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by John Ellis on
Sunday, 16 March 1997, at 6:51 p.m.
My friend's 1994 Ford Explorer pulled the same stunt as your 240 GL. Since it was only a couple of years old we never thought to check the continuity of the battery cables. Guess what! One of the cables had corroded inside the protective shielding, breaking the circuit. It took us 10 minutes to make a temporary fix, and replaced the cable the next day.
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Sunday, 16 March 1997, at 7:52 p.m.
Shatz, Benn under my 240 all day so just saw your post. First guess is battery. I had a 240 co south on me,same symptoms and it was a bad cell on battery giving out 10 not 12 volts and less amperage. Also check main fuse and fusebox. Anotjer place is Chassis ground bolt where batter system grounds. Unfasten aand wire brush both surfaces and reconnect, check continuity/resistance on both Pos and Neg cables. Corrosion is a progressive thing and can come to a head rather quickly, so it's easy to see it as an overnight happening. Stoney 90 240DL
Is this egg ...[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Monday, 17 March 1997, at 8:27 a.m.
on my face. From a first look, it would indeed appear to be a dead battery. Weird, I've never had that happen before where absoletly nothing is left, not even for a radio. I jump started it easily last nite. The battery is five years old, so this could be the culprit. I need to check the fluid level of the cells (Interstate "low maintenance" type). I probably should take a look at the alternator brushes since they are easy to get to. I'll check and clean the other connections as you recommended.
Thanks to all.
Re: Is this egg ...[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Weber on
Monday, 17 March 1997, at 1:45 p.m.
Dump the Interstate and get a Diehard! And put some new battery cables on the car as a reward for it starting!
Bob Weber
Re: Is this egg ...[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Monday, 17 March 1997, at 5:39 p.m.
When I purchased the battery, the only reliable information I could get (CR) concluded that the plain Interstate green label was as good as they got for the money. The battery is 5-6 years old, mind you.
I was going to recheck any updates on battery evaluations, as I remember the new diehards were right up there. Do they come with that clamp-down lip for a Volvo battery tray?
This episode once again reminds me of a favorite saying in medicine; If you hear hoofbeats, think of horses, not zebras...
Batteries[ALL/1998] posted by Pete on
Saturday, 22 March 1997, at 12:53 a.m.
Hey I have had great experiences with Chief auto batteries. They sell one with a two year free replacement followed by prorating. Try the 75 month ones. I have one in my 85 sentra that they replaced easily when my alternator failed but have had no probs with it I had one for my van , my datsun P/U, my other van, my 83 GL, my 83 cavalier etc... I hope they have Chief where you are I'm in So Cal
Re: Is this egg ...[ALL/1998] posted by John Laughlin on
Tuesday, 25 March 1997, at 5:59 p.m.
Diehard = Interstate. Same battery. My old Interstate in my '81 242DL is identical to the Diehard in our '85 245DL.
Re: Is this egg ...[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Tuesday, 25 March 1997, at 7:36 p.m.
John, Batteries are batteries. The only thing that's important is Cold Cranking Amps and expected lifetime. More is better in both categories. Stoney
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Wednesday, 19 March 1997, at 12:36 p.m.
I took the car to Sears to pu a new battery in and have the alternater checked. By the Time we had driven it the 5-7 miles an nite in the pouring rain, the battery was up beyond minimum amps to start the car. Conslusion: no new batttery needed. Alternator OK But it leaves the cause unanswered, Haven't had time to check the fluid level or the main ground wire connection, however.
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Weber on
Wednesday, 19 March 1997, at 1:51 p.m.
Shatz-
Did the load test equipment at Sears indicate the old battery was good and charging system was OK? Just because the battery perked up enough to start the car doesn't mean it's good. It's hard to believe a 5 -6 year old battery is still OK. Have them check the alternator ground wire - they are notorious for breaking, along with wiring harness located at the front of the engine. My question is: what caused the battery to drain? Was it overnight or did you notice a gradual change?
Bob Weber SW Ohio VCOA
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Wednesday, 19 March 1997, at 4:10 p.m.
My questions exactly. Howoever, if it was a faulty alternator (brushes or ground wire), I suppose you might expect it NOT to charge so well in the short time it was driven after being jumped. He did not test the alternator while running, just the battery w/ car turned off.
It was a all-at-once phenomenon, at least according to my wife. I suspect we will be back shortly for a new battery, or I'll be changing out the brushes. I will check the ground wire too. Thanks
Re: HELP! Dead '86 240 GL[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Thursday, 20 March 1997, at 11:23 p.m.
Shatz, I still think it's not a transient thing. It is probably a sign that the battery is/was dying...cell by cell. The age bears this out as I've never had a modern battery last more than 6 years. I remember when I was a kid we used same battery for ten years on Dodge 6 by 6 truck. Every 2 years or so we'd top up the monster size battery with a Sulfuruc Acid kit we got at Sears.
I would still give the entire electrical system a real good going over, pull the belly pan and unclip and clean/check the Alt. wire set and the entire Battery/Starter wiring. I have seen the Alt. wire cause a lot of trouble with not much visible corrosion. The black casing hides a lot of evil stuff. As long as you're down there and if new wire is called for, think about rerouting it to a cleaner, more wire friendly environment.
This is your mission Mr. Phelps...
Stoney
I've also linked to a good wiring source supplier.
Painless Wiring