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1980 240 SW changing rear crankshaft seal[ALL/1998] posted by b. nobe on
Sunday, 9 March 1997, at 4:05 p.m.
I had a few more question about pulling the transmission to get to the crankshaft seal.
I have two lifter arm type jacks, a big and small one. I am wondering if this is adequate?
I was going to use the big allied hydraulic one to drop the transmissiont,and the smaller one to support the engine.
I am guessing that I will use blocks of wood on both of them. Is it better to get a transmission jack or is it not to hard to balance the transmission on the piece of wood and jack (jack cup is about 5" for big jack)?
Will the small jack and piece of wood be adequate for supporting and slight lifting the engine?
I have the car (station wagon) on jack stands right now. Any problems with clearance that might occur?
It looks like the only way to lower the tranmission with this jack is against the overdrive cover. Is this okay??
I am thinking of getting another big jack or a transmission jack. Do you think that would help?
Is there a special technique or tool for removing the pilot bearing?
After 27 years, would it be a good idea to change the engine mounts.
You mention the spacer flange (between gearbox and OD). What is this spacer flange (gasket?) ? Does removing the spacer flange mean that I need a new OD gasket, and the seal for the fine filter? Do I need to replace the speedometer seal and oring at th is time also?
Could you give me more details on how disconnecting the OD from the flange makes installation easier.
Any other suggestion before I start tearing it up? I got my clutch parts, pilot bearings, and rear crankshaft seal.
Sorry if some a these question seem a little basic, but I am just trying to get as much information before I start working on it so I won't have it on jack stand for too many weekends..
thanks a lot. brian
nobe@gandalf.sp.trw.com wrote: Easiest attack it to remove driveshaft support, disconnect driveshaft, pull tranny, replace seal. You may need an assistant to remove some of the bell housing bolts. You will also need some wobble socket extentions. Be ca reful not to break the engine mounts while jacking up the engine (need to do this to get better access to some bolts). If you have standard transmission, take this opportunity to replace your clutch and the release and pilot bearings. I suggest that you d o not disconnect the spacer flange (between gearbox and OD) from the gearbox but do disconnect the OD from the flange to make installation easier. Write me for more details if you need them. -Greg
> There is oil leaking from the engine. seems to coming from the
> engine and transmission union.
> looks like the engine oil, but only leaks after I've been driving, and t
> during
> idle.
> I am guessing that the rear crankshaft oil seals needs to be replaced.
> (I changed the front seals just recently).
> 1. should I drop the transmission and driveshaft together, or
> disconnect the driveshaft and then the transmission?
> 2. any other problem to avoid in getting to the rear seal??
>
> thank you.
>
> Could someone please give me some advice on how to approach this.