BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
Re: Battery area of 1800E[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Ells on
Friday, 27 June 1997, at 11:04 a.m.
Chita: There is absolutly no reason not to - and practically every reason to do it! Go for it... I have done this since the early 60's in all kinds of applications. Cars, boats, ships, planes, Gen-sets, etc. (I was just a kid in so/central LA & my dad taught me this stuff) DO YOURSELF A FAVOR-check out fiberglass cloth (10 oz/2 or 3 layers) and epoxy resin. Polyester resin is O.K., but not as flexible as epoxy. Polyester resin is the stuff ordinarily used w/fiberglass cloth. It begins to cure in 30/45 minutes depending on temperature and amount of catalyst used. Polyester is also less flexible than epoxy and will in fact, become brittle over time. Epoxy resins require 24 hours to cure, and are in most cases, totally immune to invasive solvents. When combined w/a dynil, graphite, or glass cloth matrix, the resulting substrate is practically bullet proof. I mention this procedure to you because it is easier to form curved areas and diminishing bevels with this medium than w/sheet metal. I use steel & sheet metal only if practical or if original config is a no brainer to replace. How ever-the plastic route is most always faster and easier. Also, the plastic is corrosion resistant. Steel must be painted w/an epoxy-rubber type of coating.
Any questions-I'll be glad to help. Your project is more ART than open hood surgery. Don't sweat it-not even a little. Enjoy!
Re: Battery area of 1800E[ALL/1998] posted by Chita on
Friday, 27 June 1997, at 11:38 a.m.
Jim, this sounds intriguing - using fiberglass instead of welding in a fix, but what about the unibody construction deal? The 1800E's battery well is on the passenger side, between wheel well and firewall. Do I introduce a weak spot by putting a glass patch there? It's a linear hole, following the outline of the battery for an inch or two, perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" wide at the most. I'd probably make the hole much bigger to be sure I reach unaffected steel.
Hmmm... perhaps I've answered my own question: if that thing gets hit, chances are 1) the object that hit it will fold first and 2) if it does have a weak spot, it will be on the passenger side, leaving a conscious driver to scat OUTTA there... <G>
Are there enough differences between brands of fiberglass repair kits that I should favor any one in particular? The local Pep Boys has a whole display of Bondo stuff, including glass repair kits.
Re: Battery area of 1800E[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Ells on
Friday, 27 June 1997, at 1:29 p.m.
Chita: It appears you did answer your own question. The area and structure aspect that make up the "battery pot" is plenty strong. Three layers of 10 oz cloth and epoxy resin is stronger-pound for pound-than metal. Major concern is good adhesion far enough up the host surface(s). Pep Boys- hmmm... I grew up with these folks. Pleas forget Bondo kits and body repair goodies. You need inexpensive raw materials. I'd prefer you to find a good legit boat building supply or at least a real resin/cloth house for good, solid, free instruction and accurate materials. Go get some Prices, answers and/or opinions. let me know what you turn up. Epoxy would be prefered. I'll verify your costs. Boeing controls much of the prices around here. Mostly keep's them down - so, resins, fasteners, acft/boat stuff is pretty reasonable-most of the time. I'm in the Seattle area & can supply you w/ materials & help if necessary. Good luck!