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1800E warm start problem[ALL/1998] posted by Robert Davey on
Thursday, 12 June 1997, at 1:44 p.m.
I have a 1971 1800E, B20 with injection and 4-spd. It starts easy when cold but I have to crank it alot and pump the throttle to start it warm. Then it has trouble idling for a few minutes after it does start. Any ideas?? Thanks.
Re: 1800E warm start problem[ALL/1998] posted by abe crombie on
Friday, 13 June 1997, at 1:08 a.m.
If you see black smoke when it does finally starts you have either a leaky injector (port or cold start) or a ruptured diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator. On the other hand if you don't have evidence of black smoke when it starts, then you have a "vapor lock" problem due to fule pressure not being held in the lines when engine is shut down. The fuel pump has a check valve that prevents back flow and the fuel pressure regulator acts to seal off the flow when pump stops as engine is turned off. Assuming that there is no smoke and you are pursuing a vapor lock problem, then your best bet if you don't have a way to gauge fuel pressure is to run engine until operating temp is reached and then shut it off and clamp the line between fuel tank and fuel pump. This will prevent the back flow that would happen if the fuel pump is defective. Let the car stand for 10-15 minutes then remove clamp and quickly attempt start---- if it starts and runs okay, you have a defective fuel pump. If this procedure makes no difference then you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. To verify a bad FPR clamp the line that leads from it back to the tank in the same manner described for checking fuel pump nad see if it starts normally. Happy hunting.
Re: 1800E warm start problem[ALL/1998] posted by Robert Davey on
Wednesday, 18 June 1997, at 10:43 p.m.
Thanks for the help. I tried clamping both of the fuel lines and neither one worked. It still took some cranking to start. I did notice that it starts faster if I hold the throttle fully open. It still starts quickly when cold, but the fast idle is slow to kick in. When it is warm it will start instantly in the next moment after it is shut down. But again after even 2-3 minutes of sitting it takes 5-10 seconds of cranking when I leave the throttle untouched. It also shows a full hot temperature on the gauge even though the engine is NOT overheating. I don't think this has anything to do with the problem, however I mentioned it because if you pull the wire at the sending unit the engine stalls out. Any other ideas??
Re: 1800E warm start problem[ALL/1998] posted by abe crombie on
Thursday, 19 June 1997, at 12:17 a.m.
Okay, the opening the throttle makes it start faster thing would be indicative of it being flooded. Remove the cold start injector and check to see if it drips(it's an injector that is mounted aft of the throttle with a rubber hose leading to it and two screws holding it in). If the csi isn't dripping then you need to check and see if port injector set has a leaker in the crowd. The temp spiking up when you run it for a while and then shut it down briefly is normal as the water stops circulating and is heated by the engine block and head. The sender for the gauge has one wire and wouldn't cause a difference in engine performance,but the two wire sensor for fuel injection computer would make it run poor or die when unplugged.