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Re: buying a used Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Tuesday, 22 July 1997, at 9:06 a.m.
Well, I'll jump in here. The thread appears to digress a bit, but the one takaway message is to be sure that the heater fan motor has been replaced. And if you are talkng of a 80 Volvo or so, it would have probably been replaced twice, since they really didn't fix the heater fan motor until sometime after 86.
This all underscores the need for careful records for any car of this vintage you might buy. This axiom has been often repeated here because while Volvos may be long-lived, they are not maintenance free.
I had a 80 240 wagon for 14 years (180K). The body rust is a real problem, especially in climates that distibute rock salt, but the auto transmission was a rock. Never had anything go wrong with it (I changed the fluid every 30K) It is somewhat more sluggish than the stick, but I never had to replace a clutch plate, throw-out bearing, etc. Given that the other aspects of a car are good, don't shy away from an auto.
I think my word of advice is that parts will have to be replaced on any Volvo of that vintage, so look for a car that has the most things done to it most recently, especially big ticket items.
Good luck!
Re: buying a used Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Cliff Kane on
Tuesday, 29 July 1997, at 2:30 a.m.
Thanks to everone who responded with all of the good advice to my original posting on "buying a used Volvo". Well, I ended up getting an '83 244 GL with an automatic transmission. The car is from a dealer and has been "reconditioned" with new belts, hoses, seals, brakes, and comes with a warranty. Even though this was an authorized Volvo dealer the salesman was a sleeze (tried to make me feel like he was doing me a great favor by selling me the car, that there were dozens of other customers lined up waiting to buy it, etc....typical B.S.), but I played the game, waved a wad of dough under his greedy nose, walked away, and got him to drop his price to what I felt was a good price for the car. The car runs and looks great, and appears to have been garaged and was bought and serviced from the same dealer. The only thing that's bugging me about the car is that the trunk on one side at the hinge does not sit flush with the body panel. I was concerned that the car had been rear-ended, but the trunk appears to be the original, all the paint matches and seems to be original. There is no paper work amoung the service records that have come with the car that show any body work has been done (the dealer said I'm paranoid....); I'm I paranoid, or does this sound funky?
Thanks again, Cliff
Re: buying a used Volvo[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Tuesday, 29 July 1997, at 9:45 a.m.
Cliff, Could be that the Trunk lid had to be romoved at one time to service the tank or lift strus for the trunk lid. Also could be that it got hit. Crawl up underneath and check for bent metal, fender shrouds, etc. and check bolt holes for ovaling and look for places where a hook or ram might have been used to pull it back into shape.
If it drives ok, no big deal.
One sure way is to pull the taillights and check to see if they are same age, it builders mark on back will list date of manufacture and if there are 2 different years this could be an indication of a replacement due to a hit-or not...it's tough.
Use a magnet or sopt rot checker to check for BONDO/FILLER and look for a diff. in paint job/tone of paint. (Any orange peeling on "repaired" side?). check inside trunk under carpet and panels and behind spare for unpainted or original areas. If they got hit and they didn't replace the fender there might be marks from spare being hit against inside of fender.
Good luck!