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AC/Radiator Cooling Fan Aftermarket?[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Friday, 18 July 1997, at 11:34 a.m.
Has anyone installed an aftermarket AC/Radiator cooling fan lately? I have seen this on 92-93 240 series and wanted to put one on my 90 240DL. (I have all the electric stuff-30A Bosch relay, wiring harness, etc.) but which fan is best?
And would it be wiser to
A) Install it using the Radiator mounted temp sensor/or lower hose sensor
B) Install it by splicing into the green wire on the AC Switch so it's on only when the AC is running? (STD in Japaese Volvo's by the way)
I had retrofitted a std volvo fan from an 84 245 into my old 82-245 and it helped in traffic and such so that's my inspiration!
Any input good and bad will be appreciated!
Re: AC/Radiator Cooling Fan Aftermarket?[ALL/1998] posted by Michael McBroom on
Saturday, 19 July 1997, at 5:06 p.m.
I've heard that there are two possible ways to go: later model Volvos (like 92 or so?) have electric primary cooling fans that can be adapted to earlier models. Then there's the Flex-a-Lite fan, which has been installed and used successfully on a 240 and a 740 by one Volvophile I know. Sorry, I don't have a number for Flex-a-Lite. They're a pretty well known brand, though.
Re: AC/Radiator Cooling Fan Aftermarket?[ALL/1998] posted by Michael McBroom on
Sunday, 20 July 1997, at 1:08 a.m.
I just heard back from the guy who bought the Flex-a-Lite for his 740. He said that it won't fit after all. So, just thought I should correct this.
Re: AC/Radiator Cooling Fan Aftermarket?[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Ells on
Saturday, 19 July 1997, at 9:50 p.m.
Hi Stone: A fan is a fan is a fan. How much air/cubic ft per min/motor muscle/strength of material(s) used etc., is important. Of course, you already know this stuff. So... as silly as it sounds, I've seen fan kits installed on the front of the radiator. This simply won't work. The actual fan shroud, mount pads, motor housing, blades (especially when turning) create an almost solid barrier, cutting off even the normal air flow to the rad. I'm sure you know all this stuff, too. But just in case there's someone who doesn't-here it is. Fans must suck the air OVER THE FINS.
Regarding sensor location: Most of my experience w/aux fan kits has been either in the boats or race cars. We have actually experimented with both: hose collar and rad-tank insert types. For street service, either seems O.K. to me, depending on individual quality.
HOWEVER...If you're really into this cooling and control there-of thing, It's possible to make a world class project out of it. In the Arctic ocean, the water's cold. Most all resident boats run radiators(yes, and really big ones, at that); not raw water w/heat exchangers. Quite often, because we're bored, we'ed "nats ass" the whole system for more linear temps. We'd header out into a homemade mainfold, from a water/heater outlet. Fan/temp response time was always quicker. I prefer this. It's probably over-kill, but who cares? Diesels work best when run at about 195/200F. Metal stays tight, lube oils are quick, and burn rate efficiency is maxed. Also, you may want to check out "optional cycle temp" style of switches.(switch at 180, 185, 190, 195, 200, etc.)
While you're being creative, a handy trick is to place a manual over-ride toggle switch parallel to the motor. If for some reason the sensor fails or, it's 110 degrees and you're on your way up the Siskyous', having survived Redding, Shasta, Dunsmuir, etc., you can, before things get too warm, flip the switch to suck position and experience great manly power over those nasty heat mongrels. Don't forget to glue an LED on the switch side to remind you of whats still moving about. Double the resistance to th LED or you'll be sticking tape over it some night alongside the interstate, mumbling to yourself bad things about my suggestions. (btw/I don't know the first thing about building a watch-aren't you glad!) Good Luck, Jim