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262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Jim Ells on
Wednesday, 31 December 1997, at 1:59 p.m.

Just spoke w/Mike @ Northern European Automotive Recyclers (Seattle, WA 206.789.7004). Was told that only a Bertone strut tube would fit (in a 262) because of bolt holes/thread size. Other 200 series strut tubes will not work. They can't be properly tightened. The story goes on with... "We're out of Bertone suspension parts, mostly because the smart guys in the shops have learned the hard way, that not all 200/240/260 series parts are always interchangable... a lot of perfectly good parts have been destroyed." He was very adamant about this, suggesting that John's, in Portland was perhaps the best west coast supplier for these types of parts. Also, strong words about Bernardo's in South Seattle having a cavalier attitude and being 4 to 5 times as high priced as anyone else in the country.

This is a little, nit picky thing, but I believe Bertone owners should be appraised of these situations. I understand that Volvo only made about 6,200 of these cars. It is my experience that pecific 262C parts, new or used, are not that easy to come by.

Everyone, do have a good New Years holiday! Great to hear that Robert is doing better!


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Paul S. on
Wednesday, 31 December 1997, at 2:34 p.m.


Does it vary by year? I have a hard time thinking that my 1981 262C has different strut tubes than other 240's and 260's in 1981. So far all other suspension stuff has been exactly the same.

Maybe I am just a doubter...but I think the "bolt holes/thread sizes" is not correct.

Bernard's can be expensive.

Paul Seminara


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by BEARMAN on
Wednesday, 31 December 1997, at 5:21 p.m.

1975 to early 1981 200 series use:

1359630-9 RHand Strut/spindle

1359629-0 LHand Strut/spindle

Late 1981-1986 non-ABS Brakes use:

1330739-2 RHand Strut/spindle

1330738-4 LHand Strut/spindle

This is from Volvo parts microfiche, and includes all 262 Bertones!
Is there something that Volvo isn't telling us?


VOLVO PV Register


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Paul S. on
Wednesday, 31 December 1997, at 6:08 p.m.


Thanks for doing the part numbers...I was about to call my microfiche guy.

Sounds like a typical change in the 200 series, somewhere in the middle of the model they changed. (As I recall mid '81 the front bearings are different, which would fit with the part number change for the spindle.)

But there should be no problem for Jim Ells to fit any of the strut/spindles that match the pre mid '81 part number. If this doesn't work I will be baffled.

Paul Seminara VCOA Member # 9417
1996 855O 18K miles "THE BLUE GOOSE" Still a dream car.......
1981 262C Bertone 171K "THE BLUE BLENNY" V6 that runs........


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY!/Maybe not[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Ells on
Saturday, 3 January 1998, at 3:24 p.m.

In all honesty-Can't be sure of the accuracy of junque yhrade data. Only way I know about these types of situations is to get the parts in hand and visually compare. I'll challenge Mike at NEAR on Monday. Thanks for the information. I'll use it as cannon fodder!

Les Schwab still hasn't solved the problem yet and I'm still running around w/clunks, creaks, and bangs on the right side. Now... the left side is starting to pop & snap while initiating a full turn-either way. Oh boy, it's getting better. The story continues... thanks, everyone, for the input.


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Steve Seekins on
Monday, 5 January 1998, at 7:17 a.m.

The follow up about the difference between the early and late strut tubes is correct. The main difference is that the later ones use a larger spindle with the associated larger bearings and seals. Other components remain the same. Given the opportunity, go with the later ones as the bearings hold up better. I believe that hubs and rotors are the same, but would be worth verifying.

Also, on the struts made after 85 or 86, the inside length of the strut tube is shorter. These later ones do not require the spacers for the cartridges, whereas the early ones will require spacers for all aftermarket and new Volvo cartridges. The early style Volvo cartridges used on the turbos (and the old Volvo R-Sport cartridges) were longer gas loaded ones and did not require the spacers - these will not fit the newer tubes.

Steve

Volvo Club of America


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Paul S. on
Monday, 5 January 1998, at 9:32 p.m.


Steve...thanks for the excellent info.....I'm quoting you:

"Also, on the struts made after 85 or 86, the inside length of the strut
tube is shorter. These later ones do not require the spacers for the cartridges,
whereas the early ones will require spacers for all aftermarket and new
Volvo cartridges. The early style Volvo cartridges used on the turbos (and
the old Volvo R-Sport cartridges) were longer gas loaded ones and did not
require the spacers - these will not fit the newer tubes."

So here's where I'm still a bit fuzzy...maybe I am misunderstanding you and please correct me if I am wrong...(it's been a long Monday)

Does my 1981 262C require the spacers for my newly installed KYB's?

And if so....Do I buy the spacers from Volvo?...(part #1229423?)....And I paid good money for the shocks and to have them installed...Why didn't any of these people know or notice spacers are necessary? RPR and IPD don't seem to mention spacers or have different part #'s for different years for the 260's. Just that "....240 Turbos, GLT, and GT's and other models with gas struts originally installed use two spacers...."

Don't know what the '81 Bertone Coupes had originally....Gas or no gas...

Sorry for ranting....

Wow.

Thank you,

Paul Seminara VCOA Member # 9417
1996 855O 18K miles "THE BLUE GOOSE" Still a dream car.......
1981 262C Bertone 171K "THE BLUE BLENNY" V6 that runs........


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Steve Seekins on
Tuesday, 6 January 1998, at 12:59 p.m.

I do not know if your 81 Bertone originally came with the higher performance gas loaded cartridges. If so, then you need the spacers when replacing them. If it did not come with the longer gas loaded ones, then the spacers should already be in there. If you need them, yes, you get them from the dealer - they are more than just a washer.

Again, if your front suspension makes clunking noise on bumps and everything seems tight, suspect loose cartridges. Also, of the cartridge retaining nut (the large nut at the top of the tube (inside the spring and covered by the protective boot) is screwed all the way in so that the flat top of the nut touches the top of the tube, then you need the spacers!. There should be 1/8 to 1/2 inch of the fine threads showing. On the other hand, if you have no unpleasant noise from the front suspension and it appears snug and tight over bumps, then it is likely that you do not have a loose cartridge and you can stop worrying.

Installers familiar with Volvos should be aware of this need. Also, if your cartridges are not the originals and have already been replaced once, there is a good chance that the spacers are already there.

Steve

Volvo Club of America


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Paul S. on
Tuesday, 6 January 1998, at 8:56 p.m.


Yes, my car continues to clunk. Mainly from the left front side and only over certain size (medium and larger) pot holes. The clunk is sharp and quick. More of a "Donk" noise. The right does clunk but not nearly as loud. It did not clunk with the old, dead shocks....but those shocks were really gone and wallowed like a pig (as if there were no shocks at all!)

I went out with the flashlight, and indeed there is about 1/4" between the nut and the tube. But there are no rubber boots. Go figure.

Paul S.


Re: 262 strut tubes ONLY![ALL/1998] posted by Steve Seekins on
Wednesday, 7 January 1998, at 8:49 a.m.

First, if there are no boots protecting the polished shock shaft, these shocks will wear out in very short order!! Should not have been assembled without the protective boots.

Next, get a large pipe wrench or giant channel lock pliers. jack and support front of car and remove wheels. Lock steering (remove ignition key). Attempt to tighten the cartridge retainer nuts.

Now check sway bar bushings - both the end link grommets AND the bushings that hold the sway bars. Also check the end links - either bushing if bolted to control arm, or grommets if passes through the control arm

Check to make sure that the big cross member bolts are tight - tighten from the top - they are on top of the frame rails. If they are loose, consider installing the optional Volvo lower cross member braces to prevent loosening in the future.

Check INNER tie rod ends for looseness - if worn, replace tie rods.

Check ball joints - these are spring loaded, so you must check with the giant channel lock pliers by squeezint the joint vertically - if there is perceptable movement, replace them, or if the boots are torn replace them.

Check the large bushings at the rear of the lower control arms - these often look OK but are worn out - you need to use LARGE pry bar and inspect closely with strong light - both forward end and the end inside the mount plate any sign of deteriorated or torn rubber is cause for replacement of BOTH sides. Note that the right and left are different - one is harder rubber. Also, when installing, suspension MUST be loaded and settled prior to tightening or you will destroy the new bushings (same goes for most suspension bushings).

Check MOTOR mounts! Old soft shocks may have covered up other problems - now that you have good shocks, other worn parts may start to show up.

Steve

Volvo Club of America




 


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