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Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Hal Doll on
Friday, 26 December 1997, at 11:13 p.m.


Hello All,
I drive an '83 245DL Wagon with B23F fuel injected motor.
I have a problem with intermittent loss of power to the coil, or so it seems.
This problem has existed since I bought the car 2 years ago.
I have put a factory tach in the car. When the engine starts to miss the tach needle drops out. The rest of the power in the car stays on fine. Sometimes it is so bad that I almost lose the engine completely. I have cleaned all of my fuses, including the problematic blade fuse in the engine compartment. It still happens.

Do I need another ignition module?

Hal


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Bradley on
Friday, 26 December 1997, at 11:58 p.m.

I recall a similar problem on my '83DL w/B230F. Memory tells me that there was a service bulletin that involved adding barrel connectors at the ignition module and at the distributor because of bad fit of the original connectors (causing faulty electrical connections). Anybody out there remember the details of this mod and/or the part number for the kit?

Also, I recently experienced a problem with the insulation falling off of the wire to the coil resulting in an intermittant short to the fender apron. Replacing the wire back to the firewall solved that one.


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Hal Doll on
Saturday, 27 December 1997, at 6:36 p.m.


Jim,
Thanks for the tips. I have cleaned most of the connections I can find. But I assume there are ones that I don't know about too. I try to keep things clean and in good repair. I have replaced some wiring sections that have gone bad. There may be more that I still need to find.

Where would I go to find a history of Volvo service bulletiens for this model of car? The fact that the tach drops out but the rest of the electrical systems does not flinch...tells me that it must be an ignition power problem and must be isolated to that circuit....but the circuit is a bit complex and difficult to trace out.

I do have a Haynes Manuel...but not the specific model year....just a general 240 series manuel bought at the local parts store for about 12 bucks or so.

Brad

'83 240DL Wagon B23F, M46 w/OD 128K


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Sunday, 28 December 1997, at 12:05 a.m.

Jim's talking about adding the "sleeves" to the ignition control unit pins. This shims up the pins to help a bad connection problem. This was a bad enough problem that Volvo came out with this fix. Any Volvo dealer should know about this and have them in stock. The actual bulletin said to put sleeves on three certain pins but I install them on every pin which has a wire plugged onto it (seven, I think). This has fixed MANY cars with your exact symptoms.


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Dirk Mooibroek on
Monday, 29 December 1997, at 6:44 a.m.


I had probs with my 80 Bertone when the old engine was in. I bought a new coil for $ 15.00 from auto zone no more probs.

Good luck


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Jim Bradley on
Sunday, 28 December 1997, at 9:37 a.m.

Brad,

I did a little checking in my archives of Volvo service manuals. The pin sleeve modification is addressed in manual TP30432/4, Section 2 (28), Ignition Systems, 200 Series, 1975-1988, page 60, K. Modifications, Connecting guide sleeves. I include this detail so that when the Volvo Service guy says that he's never heard of it, you can point him in the right direction. The guide sleeves are P/N 1 324 909-9 and can't cost more than pennies each. A special Volvo tool P/N 999 5268-1 "Drift for connecting guide sleeves" is called out to install, but this is not absolutely necessary.

The guide sleeves are used on the three pins of the distributor connector and on pins #3, 5, and 9 of the control unit (these are the other end of the three wires in the distributor connector). Volvo non-corrosive electrical grease P/N 8708073-5 should be used during the installation. According to the manual, the sleeves at the distributor connection should have be factory installed for 1983 and newer models. The sleeves at the control unit end were factory installed on 1984 and newer. That left us '83 owners needing this upgrade at the control unit end. By the way, looking at the connector pins on the control unit, the pins are numbered counter-clockwise from the top left (top left is #1, bottom left is #5, bottom right is #6, top right is #10).

I should mention that once the connector is ever removed from the control unit, the odds of ever getting a good connection without the sleeves is slim. There is a note in the manual: "The wiring harness for the control unit must be replaced if the connector has been disconnected or when replacing the control unit". I'm not sure where Sven was going with this idea. I guess they recognised that the harness was bad and would rather charge for a harness than for guide sleeves.

I would try your friendly local Volvo Service guy who should know about this and be able to quickly check to see if this mod has been made on your car yet. If not, it certainly shouldn't be expensive or take much time to install the sleeves. Maybe he would be a real nice guy and lend you his 5268 tool for 10 minutes. Good luck. Let us know what you find. If you need more detail, send your snail-mail address.

Jim
'83 240DL B23F
'89 780 B230FT


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Monday, 29 December 1997, at 9:37 p.m.

Agreed. But if any of the wires don't make good contact, the engine can quit running. Thats why I always put the sleeves on ALL terminals which have a wire connected to them.


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by irv klein on
Saturday, 27 December 1997, at 12:58 a.m.

Before you go crazy replacing parts check the conection to the distributer. Clean up the contacts.


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by Hal Doll on
Saturday, 27 December 1997, at 6:43 p.m.

Hi Irv,

I have done a fairly good job of trying to inspect and clean everthing that I can find. I know the blade 25 amp fuse in the engine compartment can be trouble some, but I have cleaned the hell out of that and all the other fuse connections
inside and put conductive gel on them too. It's a really annoying problem, it happens for a while..then doesn't for weeks or months. I have rarely ever had to actually stop the car, but the jolting is hard on the drive train I am sure..

Brad

PS, I have had the car for 2 years now, and it has always done this.


Re: Intermittent Ignition Power Loss[ALL/1998] posted by irv klein on
Wednesday, 31 December 1997, at 9:14 p.m.

If you still have electrical problems after making sure all connections are tight and clean. That really leaves only two major components that could be at fault. First the ignition module - a not so likely candidate but possible. Secondly the distributor and in particular the Hall Effect impulse sensor. This is one wierd beast and seems to fail imtermittently and is known to cause problems like yours.




 


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.



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