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240 cold idle problem[ALL/1998] posted by Roy on
Sunday, 21 December 1997, at 10:43 a.m.
Now that's it is cold here my 85 245 with a B230F engine has a cold start problem. The car starts just fine but the idle is very fast sounds about 1500-2000 rpm. If you put the car in reverse or drive it dies. If I wait about 60 seconds it will do better but still acts like it's got little power.
After warm-up the car starts/drives just fine.
Things done so far:
replaced: flame trap,plugs,removed trottle body and cleaned & replaced gaskets
replaced some of the vaccum hoses, air box themo.
adjusted: timing, trottle position sensor
I have another volvo that I can swap parts from so I tried the air mass sensor,
and the air control valve. It did not change the problem.
Any ideas on this problem?
I bought it used and have little maint. history on it,there's about 176K miles on it.
Re: 240 cold idle problem[ALL/1998] posted by Tim Christensen on
Sunday, 21 December 1997, at 2:13 p.m.
You have indicated that, by and large, you understand the problem The colder temperatures are "gumming up" someting which is causing the high idle. I too, have a 245 (GL) and live in colder climes. I had this same problem not too long ago. Not being a mechanic, I can't give you specific instructions, I'll just tell you what I did and hope you make out okay.
The throttle cable is spring loaded and turns a plate inside a large hose going into the intake manifold. One end of this hose goes into the engine, the other sucks air in from the air intake. Remove the large black plastic hose from the metal part and clean in there with a toothbrush soaked in WD40 or similar solvent. A Volvo dealer will charge you $65 for this procedure. Ofcourse, if their good, they will take the whole thing off and really clean it well. I have done this procedure as described above on my 86 245GL once a year, and my high idle/low idle problems are no more.
Drop me a line if I can give you some more tips.
Re: 240 cold idle problem[ALL/1998] posted by Duane on
Sunday, 21 December 1997, at 3:17 p.m.
In addition to Tim's suggestion and ruling out all the other obvious vacuum leaks, check to make sure the oil fill cap seal is good and the O ring on the dip stick is not hard and allowing air into the crankcase that way.
I am assuming the vehicle is an automatic?? What is the temperature?? 1st item to check is the temperature sensing unit for the Fuel Control Unit. The best place to check it is at the connector for the control unit under the passenger side kick panel. With ignition off, and engine cold, disconnect the connector from the control unit and remove the protective cover. Along the sides of the connector there are two "toothed" plastic guards along the sides of the connector. Remove these to access the test points through the SIDES of the connector. DO NOT probe the connectors that contact the Control unit. Test between terminal #2 and a good ground with a quality ohmmeter. At about 68 degrees the meter should read between 2500 and 3000 ohms. Reconnect the connector and start the engina and warm it up to operating temp. turn off, disconnect the connector and again test at #2. Ohms should be in the 200 to 300 ohms range. Anything else indicates a bad sensor that needs to be replaced. Have fun as its in a bad place to get at but doable.
If your "cold" outside is in the range of 40 to 60 degrees ( nice southern climate ) and your control unit has the last three digits on the BOSCH number of 544 or 511 and you have ruled out and repaired all other cold start problems get a copy of Tech Service Bulletin #204 dated April 1989. This bulletin deals with the cold start problem in the B230 F engine with automatic only in the 240 series from 1985 to 1987 that have the above control unit numbers only. It details the problem and how to install a correction kit if all other items that affect idle have been corrected.
I had the same problem with my 85 that occured around the upper 60's where the engine dies upon putting it into gear. At lower temps it would die at the stop sign on the corner when the engine had warmed up a little but not enough. ALL the mechanics here ( dealer and independent) said that all of them did this and there was no fix. I finally found a reference to the bulletin somewhere and got a copy from the local dealer's parts manager. Was I surprised. There is a solution if all else that affects idle has been corrected.
I have not done anything in reference to the bulletin as the temps here have dropped into the lower 20's at night and the problem is not manifesting itself. When it warms up again in the spring I'll watch for it and do some more isolation.
I also found another TSB relating ( #202 ) to a bad AC filler valve problem allowing leakage of Freon in certain chassis numbered vehicles from 1985 to 1989. It also applied to my vehicle and again I was told that they all slowly lost freon.
Don't the dealers let the mechanics read this info from Volvo??? If I can figure out how and Jarrod would allow it I could post these on the board. They would have to be a none text file as they both have pictures.
Please do not request these from me as I do not at present have the capbility of scanning these into my system for dissemination.
Hope this helps.
Duane
83 245 DL LH 2.0 M46wOD 156xxx
85 245 GL LH 2.2 AW71 116xxx
Re:TSB #202[ALL/1998] posted by Ed Lipe on
Sunday, 21 December 1997, at 6:38 p.m.
Thanks for the note on the A/C service valve. Is there a remedy stated in the bulletin and who might pay for it? My wife's '90 240 leaks like a pig, found the leak this fall and was waiting for spring to repair. adios
Re: 240 cold idle problem[ALL/1998] posted by roy on
Monday, 22 December 1997, at 10:38 p.m.
I made the checks Duane suggested. The motor was at 55 degrees and I read 3500 ohms. Started and warmed motor to 180 degrees checked again, 250 ohms.
Looks like temp. sensor is working. I'll get the TSB from dealer and keep ya'll posted.
Later, Roy
Re: 240 cold idle problem[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Monday, 29 December 1997, at 9:59 p.m.
Sounds like your base idle speed is adjusted too low. Try this. Get engine up to operating temp. With a pair of needle nose pliers, pinch the air supply hose to the idle motor. Pinch and twist this hose to insure you are shutting off 100% of the air. What speed does the engine idle at in this condition. It should idle at least 600-650 rpms. If it idles lower than this, this would be the first place I would start.