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144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by Carleton Scully on
Friday, 29 August 1997, at 11:59 p.m.
I have a great 144S (2door) which has the original downdraft carbs which have worn beyond adjusting, so my mechanic says. Some years ago I saw an add for a replacement carb system. Any leads will be appreciated.
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by Brian T. on
Saturday, 30 August 1997, at 12:32 a.m.
Your car is a 142 if it's a 2 door. Not to be a stickler, but the original carbs are sidedraft. The replacement you buy from IPD will be a single downdraft carb. See the link below.
IPD
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by perry montgomery on
Saturday, 30 August 1997, at 7:47 p.m.
it has been my experience, limited as it may be, that
the original carbs, set and synchronized, perform much
better than the IPD conversion. The conversion runs well
but it is nothing more than a carb designed for late model
ford 2liter engines(if i have the wrong information,
please advise). I have a 122 with a B18 with dual carbs and a 544 with
B20 with an IPD conversion. My 122 performs as well if
not better than the 544. You may also have some manifold
issues if your exhaust and intake manifolds are one piece.
If you are interested in keeping your carbs, contact Lii
Montgomey(no relation) at 505-763-6134. He rebuilds the
carbs and I have had luck in the past with him. Best of
luck.Perry
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by Jim McDonald on
Sunday, 31 August 1997, at 6:52 p.m.
Well, yes, sure.
Unfortunately, the carbs that come on B-20s won't stay tuned for very long, under the best circumstances.
The Weber DGV series are a cheap Pinto sorta carb, many of which are flawed from the factory, but they do stay where you set them. Only one of perhaps 5 I've tried to tune responded in a predictable fashion; my assumption is that QC is lousy. The Cannon manifolds aren't so good either. Most setups, even when tuned
appropriately, run the center two cylinders richer than the outer two.
Bottom line is, to pass emissions tests, and for ordinary driving, the Weber is more likely to be satisfactory if you're not into tuning weekly.
DCOEs, on the other hand...
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by Brian T. on
Sunday, 31 August 1997, at 8:38 p.m.
I've had a Weber DGV on my car for almost 10 years and the only thing I've ever had to do is put a phenolic spacer between it and the manifold for those 100-degree-plus days here in LA. I put a DGV in my wife's car 3 years ago and haven't had any problems with it either. Both carbs were used when I got them. All the cylinders seem to have a "stoichiometric equality". My 2 liter '65 122 gets 27 mpg highway and about 22 around town. Also, don't confuse the real Webers with the Holleys they put in the Pinto and Vega. I must sound like an ad, but I can't say enough about the DGVs I have. They've been so trouble-free that I sometimes forget they're even there. That's something I never could say about my SUs. ---Brian
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by perry montgomery on
Monday, 1 September 1997, at 1:13 a.m.
Brian, glad to here a sucess story finally
Perhaps ther is still hope for my 544.
As for the carbs you have, are they the same as the IPD
kit carbs? The info i received directly from IPD was that the carbs they sell in the kit are the aftermarket Pinto carbs. The rebuild kit I used was listed for the Mustang II. Any tips on setting my carb would be most welcome.
Perry
Re: 144S Carbs[ALL/1998] posted by Brian T. on
Monday, 1 September 1997, at 9:04 p.m.
Well, I know that my two Webers (one on each car) are real ones, not the Holley made in the US. I'm 99% sure they're the ones IPD sells. One is a 32/36 DGV (manual choke) and the other is a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke which I removed and replaced with a water-operated choke from--- you guessed it--- a Pinto. But the real Pinto carbs are different because they have emissions equipment on them like float bowl vents and EGR ports). It's important to have the right sized main jets in there. If it won't idle smoothly you may have to change the size of idle jets (in the side of the carb) to get it in range. Mine have a very small area of idle mixture adjustment where it runs smoothly. On my '65, if you turn the mixture screw 1/4 turn in either direction, the engine will die. I had a problem with an overactive fuel pump, too. It was putting out 9psi and the carb would flood after shutting the engine off. Also, look down in the venturi and make sure the piece in the center of the barrel where the fuel comes out from the main jet isn't loose. I saw this on a car I worked on and it made it run lean. If you have a poor running condition don't rule out ignition problems like points and condensor especially. It can be very deceiving sometimes. Of course those old cars are "simple and SO easy to work on". Whoever said that never overhauled a carburetor because of a bad condensor! ---Brian