BrickBoard Archives
The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.
cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Shatz on
Tuesday, 26 August 1997, at 4:11 p.m.
Would like any recommendations for a "heavy duty" cleaner for the clearcoat on my black 960. Want to get some of the scratchs and marks out, along with some unkown paint specks that arrived airborne. Would one of Dupont's rubbing coumpound be too much to hand rub? I'd like to stick with a rubbing compound or cleaner, not an all-in-one. Ive tried Nufinish and McQuires (SP?) cleaner/polish to no avail.
Thanks
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Ray Niblett on
Tuesday, 26 August 1997, at 7:19 p.m.
I have used the following on a 95 850 (dark green with clearcoat) to
get out scratches and water stains:
Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner. This is an abrasive with petroleum
distillates (to get out stains). It leaves fine scratches in the finish.
Meguiars' #9 Swirl Remover. Use this after using #2 to restore the finish (first try this on the problem and then use #2).
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Ray Niblett on
Tuesday, 26 August 1997, at 7:22 p.m.
One more thing: I used the Meguiars' #2 for spot cleaning -- you would
not want to use it on the entire vehicle. I have used #9 on the entire
vehicle followed by waxing.
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Glenn R. Goodspeed on
Tuesday, 26 August 1997, at 10:43 p.m.
Good advice. I would add that most any rubbing compound can do the dirty work with some judicious application. Apply only to blemishes, and don't rub too hard. Lots of gentle rubbing is better.
After getting rid of the blemishes, you could use any good polishing compound to shine up the areas where you used rubbing compound. Most of the big car wax makers also market rubbing and polishing compounds. -Glenn.
Goodspeed's Volvo 1800 Newsletter
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Hal Michael on
Thursday, 28 August 1997, at 10:34 a.m.
Ray,
You might want to try 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Meguiar #07 Show Car Glaze before #02. . . That's pretty tough stuff.
A tip for any of these products is to only rub in the direction air flows over the car. This will reduce the way light reflects off of any existing fine sctatches on new ones you may accidently add with the polish or glaze.
More importantly, put a good wax on the car after any of the recommended products. I really like One Grand Blitx Wax. I use these on my '82 911SC and 850 Turbo with outstanding results.
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by sherman on
Tuesday, 2 September 1997, at 11:45 a.m.
I WAS TOLD THIS WEEKEND BY MY PARTS SHOP THAT CLAYMAGIC HAS JUST RECALLED THEIR PRODUCT DUE TO SUIT OVER MISLABELLING THAT LEAD TO SOME CONSUMER(S) TAKING THE CLEARCOAT OFF OF HIS FINISH. THAT'S FAIR WARNING FOR ANY PRODUCT NOWADAYS. ONCE THE CLEARCOAT IS GONE, YOU ARE STUCK WAXING IT FOR THE REST OF ITS LIFE TO AVOID A FADE SPOT.
Re: cleaner[ALL/1998] posted by Paul Elliott on
Tuesday, 9 September 1997, at 2:09 p.m.
You mean that because the clear coat is gone, that waxing is now required? Since clear coat is nothing more than another paint layer, it requires waxing as much as any other paint. So, no more waxing is required now than before. In addition, if the base coat is really exposed, he has alot more worries than waxing. This base coat is much thinner than the protective clear, about 1/3 to 1/4 as thick, and will start showing metal before long...His only recourse at this point is a reapplication of clear, depending on the size of the spot, before the base gets too damaged, and requires an entire repaint.