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240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Mohr on
Tuesday, 12 August 1997, at 9:28 p.m.

Ah, Texas summers...watching my outdoor thermometer climb towards 105 and watching my electric meter spin round and round.

And watching the temperature gauge on my 90 240DL wagon climb towards the red zone when I go up a hill.

I've seen the upgraded three core radiator in the IPD catalog. Does anyone know whether it would be cost effective to procure a used larger radiator from a wrecked 240 6 cylinder or diesel and have a muffler shop rebuild it with a three row core? Or even if it can be done?

Thanks for your time and interest....

Bob Mohr


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Gregg on
Wednesday, 13 August 1997, at 5:36 p.m.

For my 2 cents, I'd go with the IPD radiator. A six cylinder rad
has the hose connections on the opposite sides.
An aux. fan, in front of the condensor, relayed to come on with the
AC compressor has worked well for me.


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Henry T. Mui. on
Wednesday, 13 August 1997, at 11:11 p.m.

For my 4 cents also plan to install an additional add on large transmission
oil cooler in front of the radiator if your 240 does not already have one hooked
up! as you well know if your 240's rad. is made with plastic sides you cannot
go to a shop and have them re-cord it period! Unless you have a Volvo rad. that
was not made with the plastic side but instead with the metal (I think they
were made of brass?).

You might try to also hook up an Aux. fan to be turned on by a switch by you or
hook it up to a switch to be automatic turned on at a certain temp. This is a good setup if intend to run your A/C in that hot TEXAS Summer heat! If your 240 does not already have this type of a setup! Some guy on the Brick Board even has a 4 row cord rad. for his Volvo V-8 conversion engine!

By the way it was cheaper for me to go to the salvage yard and find a metal side Volvo 4 cylinder rad. and have a local shop re-cord it into a 3 row cord rad.
than to have purchased the IPD rad. unit.

IPD link below to E-mail them for a catalog:
IPD USA


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Friday, 15 August 1997, at 8:39 p.m.

A 240 with the standard cooling system working properly will not overheat under virtually any circumstances. I've seen many 240 radiators become restricted externally from bugs and sand. Take the radiator out and flush water through the fins in both directions. This has fixed the classic running hot symptoms many times.

The plastic radiator CAN be repaired. When they get some age on them the plastic can get brittle and crack, but a good radiator shop can remove the side tanks and clean them out. Rare when one gets restricted internally, though.


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Stoney on
Saturday, 16 August 1997, at 10:40 a.m.

The only real serious blockages I have seen on Volvo radiators has been when driver failed to refresh the coolnat on a regular basis and/or topped off the system with plain tap water that had a high mineral content. One as I recall had a coolant to water mix of 10/90 and the owner used tap/well water that had a very high mineral content-the result was just like the pipes in your house. Restricted flow due to a buildup of mineral on the walls and passages of the radiator.

Normal maintainence and flushing of the system when changong coolant will overcome/prevent 95% of these problems. The same goes ith keeping the AC condenser and Radiator free of blockage from bugs, tar, dirt, construction debris, plastic bags (seen 3 of these )- trapped in front of or between the 2 units.

Just be careful when cleaning the consenser and radiator-my neighbor tried a Pressure Washer(this thing will blast paint off a stucco house!) last week and
the AC condenser survived but he killed the radiator! The unit used upwards of 100lbs of pressure spray!


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Henry T. Mui. on
Saturday, 16 August 1997, at 12:01 p.m.

Mark,

I had no idea that the plastic sides could be repaired. The reason I state this was the fact that I had asked a repair guy about recording my plastic rad. because I'm not the original owner of the 240 the presently drive. I've been informed that the rad. in the 240 is the original rad. that the car has had.
By the way the 240 is an 84' with over +200,000 miles on her! I think the guy who sold me the 240 is pulling my leg about the rad. being the original one and that he has never changed it! Is this possible? Another thing I've noticed about Volvo 4 cylinder rads is that there is no release outlet to release the coolent. Instead you need to remove the lower rad. hose to release the coolent. I wonder if it's possible to add on a drain release valve to a re-cord rad.??? I've never replaced a rad. before on the Volvos I have but, I have seen it done on other cars.


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Mark Klein on
Sunday, 17 August 1997, at 8:10 p.m.

There was no one who knew how to repair plastic tank radiators for a long time when they first became popular with manufacturers. Now it is possible to buy the o-rings which seal the tanks to the core to reseal them. There is a crimping tool but I know of some people who just use pliers.

All this is for naught if the radiator has any substantial mileage due to the fact the plastic gets brittle and breaks.


Re: 240 Radiator Question[ALL/1998] posted by Bob Mohr on
Friday, 15 August 1997, at 10:35 p.m.

Thanks to all for the input,

My current plans are either to install a thermostatically controlled "blower" fan on the outside of my 4 cylinder radiator (or A/C condenser) or salvage an early 1980's 6 cylinder radiator from a wrecker yard and have it recored. As near as I can tell, the 6 cylinder radiator is wider but will fit using the existing radiator mounting hardware. I may have to reroute the gozinta and gozouta hoses, though....

Bob Mohr




 


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.



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